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    Keller



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    Rheinhessen 1 91 (WA) HK$24,755.00
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    Wine Advocate (91)

    Lime, apple, and grapefruit with a strong influence of their skins and pips renders Keller's 2011 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs a remarkably pithy and piquant mouthful. Density and sheer persistence this also has in spades - it's almost muscle-bound - but I'll be very interested to see whether it picks up refinement, differentiation and, for want of a better word (one Keller himself favors), elegance over the course of coming decade. There is an austerely stony undertone to this entire performance; and one that didn't dissipate in a bottle that had been opened for a day. (Incidentally, this is the first vintage of Morstein to be supplemented by a portion of sixty-year-old vines that Keller recently acquired and grafted over to Riesling.)
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