Ponce
An estate flying the flying for the Manchuela DO by producing some of the most outrageously elegant Bobal dominated wines money can buy, Ponce is an estate forcing wine lovers to look away from the internationally followed DOs in Spain.
Now one of Spain's leading experts in biodynamic and natural winemaking, Juan Antonio Ponce quickly started turning heads in the Spanish fine wine circles for his elite bottlings after starting his winery at the tender age of 23 in 2005.
He has put the lesser-known appellation of Manchuela, 100km in-land from Valencia, on the map. The region is essentially a high altitude plateau sitting between 600 and 1,000 metres above sea level. The family now owns vineyards in the villages of Iniesta, Villanueva de la Jara, Villamalea and Mahora, and consistently produce some of the best wines from Manchuela.
Now one of Spain's leading experts in biodynamic and natural winemaking, Juan Antonio Ponce quickly started turning heads in the Spanish fine wine circles for his elite bottlings after starting his winery at the tender age of 23 in 2005.
He has put the lesser-known appellation of Manchuela, 100km in-land from Valencia, on the map. The region is essentially a high altitude plateau sitting between 600 and 1,000 metres above sea level. The family now owns vineyards in the villages of Iniesta, Villanueva de la Jara, Villamalea and Mahora, and consistently produce some of the best wines from Manchuela.
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Castilla La Mancha | 1 | 97 (WA) | HK$3,010.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)After 15 years of searching, they have come up with a blend of 85% Bobal and 15% Moravia Agria that they thought worthy of carrying their surname, which is what the new top of the range 2018 Ponce is. It was produced with grapes from a vineyard in Villanueva de la Jara planted with Bobal and Moravia Agria on stony soils with sand and limestone mother rock (tosca). They vinified the two varieties separately and then selected the two 600-liter barrels that showed more elegance and finesse. After fermenting with 100% full clusters and indigenous yeasts, the wine from those barrels was kept longer with the lees in a 4,500-liter oak vat. What came to my mind was Monty Python: "And now for something completely different!" It's only 12.5% alcohol, and the color is surprisingly light, almost like a Trousseau from the Jura. The nose is reticent, insinuating and nuanced, shy rather than showy but with detail and changing by the minute. Wet chalk, flowers, herbs and a smoky/flinty touch develop slowly. The palate reveals great inner strength, energy and light, focused and precise, with beautiful symmetry. There is rusticity, elegance and length, chalky and with an almost salty finish. This has to be the most elegant wine ever produced by Ponce and possibly the most elegant Bobal ... in the world? This is more Burgundian than Rhône. It has all the ingredients and balance to develop nicely and for a long time in bottle. 1,991 bottles were filled in February 2020. There will also be a white Ponce in the future. |
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Castilla La Mancha | 1 | 98 (WA) | HK$2,475.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (98)The eponymous red 2022 Ponce was produced with 80% Bobal from granite soils and 20% Moravia Agria from limestone and clay. It fermented with 100% full clusters in open-top 4,500-liter oak vats and finished fermenting and aging in a single 7,000-liter oak vat for 11 months. It has 13% alcohol and a pH of 3.6 with 5.7 grams of acidity. This has something in common with the La Estrecha from this same vintage, with a more ethereal profile, both with changes in the élevage toward larger volumes that give the wines more relaxed, less tight personalities. Complete, balanced and harmonious from very early on, this is a great vintage for this wine. 7,000 bottles were filled in September 2023. |
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