Jeb Dunnuck (99)

Just about as good as it gets, the 2012 Cristal Rosé is a magical effort based on 56% Pinot Noir and 44% Chardonnay. It’s a powerful, medium to full-bodied, incredibly textured rosé offering a huge amount of salty, chalky minerality as well as awesome notes of white cherries, orange blossom, caramelized apples, and toasted bread. It shows the ripe, rounded richness of the 2012 vintage yet has bright, racy acidity, perfect balance, and a great, great finish. It opens up nicely with air and will ideally be given 2-4 years of bottle age, and it should evolve for 2-3 decades.

Wine Advocate (99)

A candidate for wine-of-the-vintage honors in Champagne, Roederer's 2013 Cristal Rosé is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, red berries, stone fruit, freshly baked bread and tangerine oil. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, the vintage's bright girdling acids are amply cloaked in exuberant, expressive and notably concentrated fruit; so while this Cristal is as tensile and age-worthy as one would expect, it's also impressively fleshy and generous given the year. Concluding with an intensely sapid finish, the 2013 isn't as overtly structured as the muscular, tightly wound 2012: rather, it's the 2013's alliance of cut and flesh, precision and charm that's so compelling this year. This is another banner vintage for what I consider the reigning champion of the region's tête de cuvée bottlings, and it will be worth an effort to acquire.

Vinous (97)

The 2007 Cristal Rosé opens with the most captivating, extraordinary bouquet imaginable. Sweet, exquisite and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2007 is intense yet weightless, with extraordinary overall balance and remarkable finesse. Today, the 2007 Cristal Rosé is a wine of pure seduction. There is little doubt the 2007 is a great Cristal Rosé in the making. This is the first vintage in which all of the fruit was farmed according to biodynamic principles. According to winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, biodynamic farming has brought increased aromatic presence in the fruit and also given the Pinot a bit more intensity than normal, so much so that in 2007 the blend is 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay as opposed to the 60/40 split that has been more typical over the years. In 2007, the fruit was picked in August, which is also unusual, but bud break got off to an early start, so the growing season turned out to be longer than the classic 100-day period that is typical from bud-break to harvest. All of that means the 2007 Cristal Rosé is a much more classic-feeling wine that one might have expected.

Decanter (97)

A touch of Mirabelle plum is framed by strident lemon on the nose. Smoky echoes seem to appear with more air, alongside freshly picked chestnut mushrooms. Later on, there is a real note of honey. The palate is bundled in its lemon expression: pure, heightened, linear, alive with lemon zest, almost like freshly squeezed Amalfi lemon juice tempering ripe Mirabelle plums. Yet there are shadows of grilled nuts, of deep chalk, of subtle smokiness - the bubbles still burst, carrying all these flavours. The finish presents a lovely note of peppery rye crumb. A very complex and compelling wine. You want to go back because every time you do, new things happen. Wow. Tasted from magnum.

Decanter (97)

The merest touch of caramel pops up on the nose – or is it a tone of apple with a touch of maple syrup? Later on, lovely smokiness sets a reductive accent. The palate has a very textural presence, a very lively mousse, almost urgent and certainly vivid. That textural element is also expressed in flavours of wet chalk, countering bright lemon and being complemented by rounded ripeness of fruit. The lemony length is endless, mouthwatering, with an edge that is reminiscent of apricot or Mirabelle plum skin, underlining the mouthfeel before that lemon zestiness takes over again on the long finish. Tasted from magnum.

James Suckling (98-99)

This is really back-ended thanks to a powerful and almost endless finish. Full-bodied, dense and powerful with incredible concentration and length. Round and polished tannins. Layered. This unravels bit by bit. Energetic acidity gives it such superb freshness. This is at the 2010/2009 level.

James Suckling (98)

Ripe, decadent aromas of blackberries, black truffles and black cherries with hints of violets. Dark, wet earth, too. Full-bodied with a solid core of beautiful, pure fruit and creamy, round and fine tannins. Tight and reserved, but showing wonderful potential. Try after 2025.

Wine Advocate (100)

I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time.

Wine Advocate (100)

The release of this wine comes at a very happy time for the Masseto brand. The stunning 2015 Masseto is hitting the market just as the final touches are being made to the new Masseto winery. I'm told that Masseto might one day see other wines made under that same roof, so we can't exclude a future enlargement of the Masseto portfolio. The Masseto vineyard now covers seven hectares (divided into three plots), and the vines range from 30 to 40 years old. The wine is absolutely teeming with sensorial spirit that is transmitted through the bounty of the bouquet and the solid tannins of the mouthfeel. Nothing about the wine goes unnoticed or unchecked. Its many working pieces fit together with precision like a well-oiled machine. The 2015 vintage is characterized by a level of sheer exuberance that also defined the 2004 and 2007 vintages. Yet, it also reveals similar power, directness and linearity that we saw in the 2010 vintage. The 2015 Masseto takes the best of all those past vintages and confines those qualities to this single, spectacular bottle.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (100)

Axel Heinz turning out yet again a wine that is generous and moreish but that goes deeper, offering layers of coffee, smoked herbs, rosemary, saffron, gentle waves of powerful brambled fruits. Mouthwatering, with tension and precision. Finely spun tannin that are elastic in embracing and taming the exuberant fruits yet chewy enough on the finish to show there is plenty of ageing ability ahead. Makes a big impression and yet has that Italian ability to be gulpable at the same time. A more elegant, moreish version of Merlot than you get in the biggest Pomerols, but every bit as beautiful. 11ha.

Wine Advocate (95)

Here's our new little super star from the Tuscan Coast. The 2018 Massetino is Merlot with a dash of Cabernet Franc that makes all the difference in terms of the wine's aromatic precision and its overall staying power. Dark fruit and dried blackberry are followed by exotic spice and campfire ash. The aromas are fluid and relaxed, flowing seamlessly in unison and grace. If you love Masseto, you can't miss the Massetino. This wine offers a whole new take on the world-famous Merlot, and if we are to be honest, it paints a path to where future vintages of Masseto are going as an expression of a vineyard and territory rather than just a strict read of one grape.

Jeb Dunnuck (95+)

The 2019 Massetino is 94% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc. This is only the third vintage of this cuvée, which adds a splash of Cabernet Franc to give a dramatically different take on Masseto. Ripe black cherries, currants, tobacco leaf, scorched earth, and ample graphite are just some of the nuances here, and it does have a slightly more floral, herbal, focused edge compared to the more round and opulent Grand Vin. Rock solid on the palate and structured, tannic, yet balanced and concentrated, it's built for the long haul and will need 7-8 years to hit maturity, but it’s going to have 25-30 years of overall longevity.

Wine Advocate (95)

The Masseto 2020 Massetino (Merlot with a touch of Cabernet Franc) is extremely generous and rich. This wine puts it all out there in full view with a bouquet that is stitched together with ripe blackberry and black cherry preserves, black stone or pencil shaving, sweet spice, cigar, smoke and tar. This was a warm and sunny vintage, and you feel the power of those sunbeams locked within the dark, opulent and concentrated fruit on display here. This is a special treat, and the 2020 edition offers a clear identity for Massetino. This vintage comes close to out-powering the bouquet of the 2019 Masseto also hitting the market now.

Wine Enthusiast (96)

All you need is a few swirls of the glass to release the perfumed aromas of wild berry, forest floor, new leather and crushed herb. The palate shows precision and finesse, offering red cherry, cranberry, baking spice and tobacco set against taut refined tannins and bright acidity. It's still youthfully austere but will bloom with more bottle aging.

James Suckling (97)

A red with plum and cherry character with hints of bark, mushroom and clove. It’s full-bodied with layers of fruit and a long, flavorful finish. Needs time to soften, but structured and beautiful. Such finesse with strength. Really impressive. Try after 2022.

The Wine Cellar Insider (100)

Incredible in every sense of the word, this has everything you could want in a Pauillac and from Mouton Rothschild. Just as good, but different in style from the opulence found in the 2009, here you find incredible levels of intensity, density, richness, vibrancy and lift. The wall of fruit is perfectly ripe, expressing its purity along with crushed rocks, flowers, spice box, lead pencil, currants, cassis, blackberries, and Cuban cigars. The racy finish is seamless and crosses the 60-second mark with ease. This is not a wine for today. This is for the future. Your children can enjoy it at maturity.

Wine Advocate - Robert Parker (94)

A prodigious, decadently rich effort, Oliverhill’s 2003 Shiraz Jimmy Section (15% alcohol) is a 100% Shiraz aged in French oak, of which one-third is new. It offers up a luxurious aromatic display of loamy earth, new saddle leather, blackberry liqueur, charcoal, and barbecue spices. Layered, chewy, full-bodied, and opulent with extravagant richness, sweet, supple tannin, and low acidity, this is a knock-out Shiraz to drink over the next 5-12 years.

James Suckling (99)

This is a fantastic white. The greatest Ornellaia white so far. Very complex and dense yet, at the same time, energetic and vivid. This shows so much richness and density with a pretty, phenolic texture that keeps you entranced. Full-bodied with lots of honeysuckle, green-melon and cooked-apple character. Very long and flavorful. Dynamic and great wine. Drinkable now, but better in 2021.

Vinous (94)

The 2017 Ornellaia Bianco shows a bit less nerviness than it has in the past. Then again, this is 2017. Orchard fruit, white flowers and tropical overtones add lovely shades of nuance. In 2017, the Bianco also has a bit of Viognier, which no doubt adds richness. In previous years, the Bianco has been more Bordeaux-like. The 2017 is decidedly more exotic in spirit.

Decanter (98)

One of the great years of Bordeaux now at 10 years old and showing why this is such an unusual vintage in terms of the depth of structure and muscular concentration that was achieved. In fact, I am upping the drinking window from the last time I tasted this, as there is such a pulse of life and grip that shows no signs of going anywhere. The initial layers are starting to be peeled back, but this retains primary black and blue fruits that are still full of flesh alongside baked earth, tons of liquorice and black chocolate with a grippy tannic structure, fresh acidities and a serious attitude. Brilliant stuff, that is clearly going to power on for decades. Harvest September 22 to October 20.

The 2016 Palmer Historical XIX, a vintage now widely recognised as one of the greatest vintages in modern times in both Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley. Jancis Robinson suggests that 2016 is “the best Bordeaux vintage I will probably ever taste” across her extensive career as a Master of Wine.

Château Palmer was the pinnacle of success in 2016 achieving four perfect 100-point scores, giving Bordeaux collector’s even more reason than normal to eagerly add this sought-after wine to their collection.

This wine offers a rare, unique and fascinating historical insight into the history of Bordeaux. It is a collector’s gem, with around 4,500 bottles made.

Wine Advocate (100)

I fell in love with the 2019 La Craie as soon as I put my nose in the glass, and the wine stood out like a sore thumb in a flight with the rest of the wines from Per Se. The nose is subtle, elegant, harmonious snf ethereal despite the 14.5% alcohol, This comes from the south-facing slope, the cooler exposition in the southern hemisphere and is the co-fermentation of the field blend of Malbec and Cabernet Franc; depending on the vintage, it can contain some 20% of Cabernet Franc, but they don't even know for sure because the different vintages yield differently depending on the grape. It's perfumed and floral, with the freshness of a forest, notes of graphite and an ethereal quality, not only on the nose but also on the palate, where it's only medium-bodied and has ultra-fine, elegant, fine-grained tannins. It fermented and matured in barrel for 16 months. 1,440 bottles were filled in November 2020.

Wine Advocate (99)

The 2020 La Craie was also picked earlier, and the wine achieved lower alcohol (14%) than the 2019 through fermenting the destemmed grapes in their new crylon vats. It matured in used 225-liter barrels for 16 months, the same barrels they have always used from the beginning. It's a less austere expression of LaCraie, more open, aromatic and gentler but keeping the personality, the delicate tannins and the DNA from the place, the large bones with little meat. Great effort for the vintage. 912 bottles were filled in December 2021.

Iubileus is a profound expression of pure Malbec, too long associated with unimpressive mass-produced wines – the varietal flexes its considerable muscles in this 98 pointed wine. Whilst the 2018 will require patience and time in bottle, its striking quality is clear. Endless layers of minerality and elegant fruit are reticent at this stage but unmistakably present. Hidden amongst the flanks of impeccably fine yet abundant tannins is a core of sensational acidity and perfume simply biding its time to burst forth.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2019 Iubileus comes from Malbec from a plot planted in 2013 on limestone-rich soils with some 40 centimeters of soil, worked organically since it was planted but not certified. It fermented in used rolling barrels with indigenous yeasts, with a maceration of 30 days and matured in used barriques for 16 months. It has moderate ripeness, 14% alcohol and good freshness and acidity, coming through as balanced, harmonious and juicy, with some earthiness, fine, chalky tannins and a long, persistent finish. 1,380 bottles were filled in November 2020.

Wine Advocate (97+)

The 2020 Iubileus comes from the northern exposure (the warmer exposure in the southern hemisphere) of the hill in Gualtallary where Per Se has its vineyards, where the soils are a little deeper and help to cushion the heat from warmer years like 2020. There is a change in 2020: the wine didn't ferment in barrel like all the previous years but instead was in crylon vats, a sort of inert and very clean material that can be closed. It matured in used 225-liter barrels for 16 months. The wine is open, expressive and floral, with 14.1% alcohol. They achieved harvesting earlier in the warmer and lower-yielding year (around March 10th) to avoid over-ripeness and too much concentration in the wine. It has fine tannins and feels approachable and gentle. 864 bottles were filled in December 2021.

Wine Enthusiast (99)

The new release of this Champagne is impressively stylish. It comes from a vertiginous vineyard facing north across the Marne river, the soil producing a wine with intense minerality and texture that demands time to soften. So, the blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is set for further aging. Ideally, wait for this magnificent wine until 2025.

Wine Spectator (98)

A beautifully bright and expressive Champagne, with precision and vivid acidity throughout; roasted coffee bean and graphite notes lead to a rich palate of toasted brioche, crystallized honey, bergamot and crème de cassis. Exotic ground spice details of cardamom, ginger and anise show on the finish. Tasted from magnum. Drink now through 2030.