Wine Advocate (100)

I was really looking forward to tasting the 2013 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard since all of the previous vintages have been truly exceptional, and I wanted to see what it would be in a cooler year. The bottled wine contains perhaps 15% Malbec in the blend, and they will soon stop mentioning Cabernet Franc on the label. It fermented in 500-liter oak barrels with 50% of the Cabernet Franc and all of the Malbec and then matured in used oak foudres. It's very intense and powerful, but at the same time, there is a kind of lightness on the palate that makes if feel light on its feet but with great inner power. There is citrus acidity that makes it effervescent and electric. It has some 7.5 grams of acidity and a pH of 3.45, very healthy parameters. The peppery character appears after some time, giving it a Chinon-like twist, and it also reminds me of my favorite Bordeaux, Pomerol's Lafleur. This is definitely world-class and worth lying down, as it should develop further complexity in bottle. This is one of those wines where the only improvement I can think of is having magnums rather than bottles. Bravo!

1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2011 – 98 points (WA)
1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2012 – 98+ points (WA)
1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2013 – 100 points (WA)
1 x 75cl - Gualtallary 2014 – 98 points (WA)

El Enemigo Gran Enemigo Gualtallary is a single vineyard (Gualtallary) production combining Cabernet Franc (dominant) and Malbec. After near misses in 2011 and 2012 in 2013 this amazing duo of winemakers produced the perfect wine in 2013. Wine Advocate critic Luis Gutiérrez said the 2013 reminded him of Pomorol’s Lafleur and was “definitely world class” and “worth laying down”. The 2013 has a drinking window to 2030 and all these wines will benefit from a decade of aging. Only around 3,000 bottles are produced, of this incredible wine (far less than wines like Screaming Eagle at 5,000-9,000).

The super high scores and tiny production mean that this is a lovely vertical for collectors or investors to own.

Tim Atkin MW (95)

We want to change perceptions of Torrontés,” says Alejandro Vigil, who sources this chiselled, almost Rheingau Riesling-like white from a seven-year-old pergola at 1,600 metres in Gualtallary. Mineral-edged, taut and refined, with lime and white flower notes, stony intensity and thrilling palate length.

James Suckling (95)

This has rich, lemon and lightly grassy aromas in a very fresh, pure and focused mode. Some fresh-pastry and chalky notes, too. The palate is succulent and piercing. Some smooth, lees-derived texture sits nicely around the fresh, lemon flavor with pastry-like resolve. Impressive textural complexity really makes this special. Drink over the next six years.

Vinous (95)

The 2020 Sémillon El Enemigo from Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo hails from a 70-year-old vineyard. Aged with flor for a year before 15 months in barrels, it’s a golden yellow in the glass. On the nose there are notes of flint, honey, a little hazelnut and cashew nut underneath the flor-based aromas of white flowers and pear. In the mouth, however, it’s broad with a good, voluminous flow and a clove backdrop. Intense and creamy with a sustained layer of salinity, the stylistic acrobatics have opened up new possibilities for the varietal.

Decanter (95)

Lots of oak here, but so well integrated with the exceptional fruit, it’s very moreish. On the palate there’s cream, leather, toast and coffee alongside succulent red fruits including raspberry and strawberry which carries the wine beautifully. It has ripe, generous tannins offset by fine acidity with a savoury tobacco pouch finish. It’s just starting to hit its stride but has a long way to go.

Wine Enthusiast (93)

Classic Rioja aromas of vanilla, spice, tobacco and dried berry fruits carry this wine. On the palate, this warm-vintage gran reserva has energy from well-stored acidity, while the flavors include cherry, plum, mocha and a plethora of spices. Chocolate and tobacco flavors along with general warmth crowd the finish. Drink through 2030.

James Suckling (94)

Very complex aromas of ripe berries, sultanas, cedar and hints of chocolate. Full-bodied with round, ripe tannins that are layered and fresh. A delicious combination of mature fruit and mahogany add to the complexity of the wine. Holding on really nicely. Drink or hold.

Tim Atkin MW (96)

Named after the range of hills in the cool, north-west corner of Rioja, Gómez Cruzado's top white is a cuvée of Viura and 25% Tempranillo Blanco, Calagraño and Malvasía. Aged in concrete eggs and barrels, it's a leesy, sappy, complex blend with notes of beeswax, vanilla and lemongrass and a salty tang. Wonderfully complex.

James Suckling (98)

Fresh blueberries and brambleberries take center stage, which is striking for a wine of this age. There are also lots of roasted herbs, such as sage, not to mention floral elements, including lavender and dried violets. Then come cedar, sandalwood and tar. The tannins are incredibly round and soft, without the slightest hint of anything dry. This is among the most elegant of Riojas, where the acidity is wonderfully pronounced and cuts right through any touch of dried fruit. Long and powerful, yet subtle on the finish. Drink now, or hold for a very long time.

Tim Atkin MW (94)

La Rioja Alta is one of the most traditional wineries in Haro’s Barrio de la Estación, famous for producing wines that are good to drink on release, but also age beautifully in bottle. This new Gran Reserva, made from Tempranillo with 6% Graciano for added backbone, is very much a reflection of the cooler, more “Atlantic” 2014 vintage. La Rioja Alta didn’t make its top two Gran Reservas – 904 and 890 – in 2014, so all of its best grapes were used for Viña Arana. Fine and elegant, with vibrant acidity, notes of coconut and cinnamon from the American oak and a core of savoury, refreshing tobacco leaf and red berry flavours framed by fine, caressing tannins. Old-fashioned Rioja at its glorious best.

Decanter (96)

Beautiful nose coconut cream, vanilla and mocha nose. Smooth and mellow on the rich and velvety palate with lots of sweet spices, dates and chocolate-covered currants. Long-lasting and utterly delicious.

Wine Advocate (95)

The red flagship 2006 Viña Tondonia Reserva was inspired by the vineyards of the Médoc but produced with local grapes, 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, which achieved 13% alcohol in 2006. It always matures in used American oak barriques for some six years. The oldest of all the reds I tasted, it was also the one with more freshness, which speaks to the quality of the vineyard. This takes the lion's share of the 400,000 bottles the winery produces, with some 220,000 bottles filled over a period of 12 consecutive days in May 2014.

Wine Advocate (96)

Following the appreciation of the 2007 vintage from María José López de Heredia, the red 2007 Viña Tondonia Reserva is showing great, revealing unusual finesse and elegance. The nose is a little reticent but nuanced and complex, a little shy rather than explosive. The palate is medium-bodied, and the tannins are very refined. This has to be one of the finest vintages of Viña Tondonia Reserva of recent years. 200,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2015.

Tim Atkin MW (97)

Tondonia's reds have been on an upward curve recently and are now at the same level as the bodega's world-class whites. This is a fine, elegant, savoury, low-alcohol blend of Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha and 5% each of Mazuelo and Graciano, combining summer berry fruit, racy acidity, granular tannins and an earthy, balsamic undertone. Good now, but this will develop further in bottle.

James Suckling (99)

Marvelous aromas of crushed berries, tobacco, cedar and mushrooms. Some dried cheese. Then turns to flowers. Very complex. Full and intense with fantastic depth and power. It goes on for minutes. It is a wine that exudes tradition but gives a sense of modernity with precise winemaking. Two years in oak, one in concrete and three or four in bottle. Drink on release and age onwards.

Wine Advocate (100)

I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time.

James Suckling (98)

This is amazing traditional Rioja with a complexity and beauty of ripe fruit and long aging. Unique. Full body, ultra-fine tannins, tobacco, vanilla, plums and prunes. It lasts for minutes on the palate. Three years aged in oak and three years in bottle. 80% tempranillo with the rest of the classic varieties. All from high altitude vineyards.

An expression of the chalkiest and most mineral-heavy parcel within the Uco Valley, PerSe Gualtallary Inseparable is the latest addition to PerSe’s line-up and is a “good introduction to their portfolio”. Sourced from the central parcel of the Monasterio vineyard, this is a “classical Gualtallary” that made its debut in 2018. Thunderously applauded as an “impressive inaugural vintage”, it was awarded 95 points from Decanter and 94 points from the Wine Advocate.

Hand-picked, fermented in concrete and aged for 14 months in neutral French oak, this is a lifted and refined style of Malbec. Gutiérrez, who finds this wine “hard to resist” (WA), is mesmerized by the “very pure and floral” aromas and a palate that reveals “velvety texture and round tannins with citrus freshness” (WA).

Wine Advocate (94)

The 2019 Inseparable comes from the original vineyard planted by the monks in the Monasterio del Cristo Orante in Gualtallary Monasterio at 1,450 meters above sea level. The destemmed grapes fermented in concrete with indigenous yeasts and matured in concrete for one year, different from the first vintage that matured in oak. 2019 was a cold and wet year when they picked in early April in a year with a small ripening, the last vineyard they harvest. The nose has flowers and dark fruit and notes of graphite and earth, and the palate has a strong chalky sensation. It's ripe at 14.5% alcohol and juicy, with good freshness and acidity (pH 3.5 after malolactic and 6.2 grams of tartaric acid). It's a serious and somewhat austere red. 7,700 bottles were filled in March 2020. It was a good yielding year.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2020 Inseparable comes from a warm and dry year, when they picked earlier and achieved a wine with lower alcohol than the 2019 that I tasted next to it, 14% here versus 14.5% in 2019—half a degree that was noticeable. It's juicier and more approachable too, and it feels fine-boned and balanced, with good acidity. Since 2019, the wine is kept unoaked, fermented and matured in concrete for 12 months. It's a more approachable vintage with fine-grained tannins. 6,000 bottles were filled in February 2021, as it was a lower-yielding year.

Wine Advocate (100)

I fell in love with the 2019 La Craie as soon as I put my nose in the glass, and the wine stood out like a sore thumb in a flight with the rest of the wines from Per Se. The nose is subtle, elegant, harmonious snf ethereal despite the 14.5% alcohol, This comes from the south-facing slope, the cooler exposition in the southern hemisphere and is the co-fermentation of the field blend of Malbec and Cabernet Franc; depending on the vintage, it can contain some 20% of Cabernet Franc, but they don't even know for sure because the different vintages yield differently depending on the grape. It's perfumed and floral, with the freshness of a forest, notes of graphite and an ethereal quality, not only on the nose but also on the palate, where it's only medium-bodied and has ultra-fine, elegant, fine-grained tannins. It fermented and matured in barrel for 16 months. 1,440 bottles were filled in November 2020.

Wine Advocate (99)

The 2020 La Craie was also picked earlier, and the wine achieved lower alcohol (14%) than the 2019 through fermenting the destemmed grapes in their new crylon vats. It matured in used 225-liter barrels for 16 months, the same barrels they have always used from the beginning. It's a less austere expression of LaCraie, more open, aromatic and gentler but keeping the personality, the delicate tannins and the DNA from the place, the large bones with little meat. Great effort for the vintage. 912 bottles were filled in December 2021.

Iubileus is a profound expression of pure Malbec, too long associated with unimpressive mass-produced wines – the varietal flexes its considerable muscles in this 98 pointed wine. Whilst the 2018 will require patience and time in bottle, its striking quality is clear. Endless layers of minerality and elegant fruit are reticent at this stage but unmistakably present. Hidden amongst the flanks of impeccably fine yet abundant tannins is a core of sensational acidity and perfume simply biding its time to burst forth.

Wine Advocate (98)

The 2019 Iubileus comes from Malbec from a plot planted in 2013 on limestone-rich soils with some 40 centimeters of soil, worked organically since it was planted but not certified. It fermented in used rolling barrels with indigenous yeasts, with a maceration of 30 days and matured in used barriques for 16 months. It has moderate ripeness, 14% alcohol and good freshness and acidity, coming through as balanced, harmonious and juicy, with some earthiness, fine, chalky tannins and a long, persistent finish. 1,380 bottles were filled in November 2020.

Wine Advocate (97+)

The 2020 Iubileus comes from the northern exposure (the warmer exposure in the southern hemisphere) of the hill in Gualtallary where Per Se has its vineyards, where the soils are a little deeper and help to cushion the heat from warmer years like 2020. There is a change in 2020: the wine didn't ferment in barrel like all the previous years but instead was in crylon vats, a sort of inert and very clean material that can be closed. It matured in used 225-liter barrels for 16 months. The wine is open, expressive and floral, with 14.1% alcohol. They achieved harvesting earlier in the warmer and lower-yielding year (around March 10th) to avoid over-ripeness and too much concentration in the wine. It has fine tannins and feels approachable and gentle. 864 bottles were filled in December 2021.

James Suckling (97)

This is always a great red with subdued yet complex aromas of dark berries, peppers and dried meat. Hints of violets, too. Full-bodied, chewy and polished with a beautiful finish that is serious and intense. Needs two or three years to come together. Available in 2019.

Tim Atkin MW (97)

Little by little, this no-expense-spared winery is approaching the peak of Rioja and now deserves to be considered among the region’s leading producers. Fine, perfumed, elegant and well balanced, with notes of blackberry and orange zest, complemented by sweet, aromatic oak and finishing with freshness and balletic poise.