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Rhone 1 93-95 (VN) HK$5,200.00
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Vinous (93-95)

Brilliant magenta. Ripe red and blue fruits, potpourri, incense and Moroccan spices on the deeply perfumed, expansive nose. Stains the palate with sweet boysenberry, black raspberry and floral pastille flavors, which are sharpened by building mineral and white pepper flourishes. Shows the depth and power of the vintage but comes off lively, even graceful. Delivers strong floral thrust on the extremely long, gently tannic finish.
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Rhone 1 100 (JD) HK$3,600.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Prestige Blanc is pure gold and a magical, perfect wine from this incredible family estate. Based largely on Roussanne with smaller amounts of Grenache Blanc and Clairette, it was brought up in used demi-muids. Honeyed pineapple, caramelized white peach, mango, honeysuckle, and exotic rose petal notes all emerge from this full-bodied white, which has bright acidity, incredible depth of fruit, and flawless balance. This extraordinary white needs plenty of air to show at its best (you could even open it the day before and keep it in the refrigerator overnight), and I suspect it will have two decades or more of overall longevity.
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Rhone 1 98-100 (JD) HK$8,860.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (98-100)

Incorporating 8% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah and 5% other permitted variety, 60% destemmed, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes sports a deep, inky color as well as sensational notes of black currants, smoked meats, earth and crushed rocks. Deep, rich, unctuous and decadent, with huge extract and richness, yet never over the top or overripe, it's a killer wine that's going to flirt with perfection on release.
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Rhone 1 97 (WA) HK$7,380.00
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Wine Advocate (97)

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes derives from parcels planted on classic clay and galets roulés soils. It's 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and 5% other varieties. Tight, intense, even clenched, it's in need of several years' cellaring before it becomes truly enjoyable to drink. For now, those gorgeous black cherries are restrained behind a firm wall of tannins. Full-bodied and rich, this is ripe, it just requires patience.
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Rioja 1 98 (JS) HK$3,800.00
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James Suckling (98)

Fresh blueberries and brambleberries take center stage, which is striking for a wine of this age. There are also lots of roasted herbs, such as sage, not to mention floral elements, including lavender and dried violets. Then come cedar, sandalwood and tar. The tannins are incredibly round and soft, without the slightest hint of anything dry. This is among the most elegant of Riojas, where the acidity is wonderfully pronounced and cuts right through any touch of dried fruit. Long and powerful, yet subtle on the finish. Drink now, or hold for a very long time.
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Rioja 2 94 (TA) HK$2,230.00
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Tim Atkin MW (94)

La Rioja Alta is one of the most traditional wineries in Haro’s Barrio de la Estación, famous for producing wines that are good to drink on release, but also age beautifully in bottle. This new Gran Reserva, made from Tempranillo with 6% Graciano for added backbone, is very much a reflection of the cooler, more “Atlantic” 2014 vintage. La Rioja Alta didn’t make its top two Gran Reservas – 904 and 890 – in 2014, so all of its best grapes were used for Viña Arana. Fine and elegant, with vibrant acidity, notes of coconut and cinnamon from the American oak and a core of savoury, refreshing tobacco leaf and red berry flavours framed by fine, caressing tannins. Old-fashioned Rioja at its glorious best.
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Rioja 1 96 (DC) HK$1,955.00
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Decanter (96)

Beautiful nose coconut cream, vanilla and mocha nose. Smooth and mellow on the rich and velvety palate with lots of sweet spices, dates and chocolate-covered currants. Long-lasting and utterly delicious.
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Rhone 1 94 (WA) HK$1,500.00
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Wine Advocate (94)

Made from 50- to 100-year-old vines, the 2017 Rasteau Cuvee Confiance is a foudre-aged blend of 65% Grenache, 25% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre. It shows more freshness than the younger-vine cuvées, featuring raspberry and garrigue notes on the nose. Still full-bodied and rich on the palate, it adds hints of chocolate on the long, velvety finish. Tasted twice (once blind), with generally consistent notes, although one bottle was a bit more chewy-tannic than the other.
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Rhone 4 94-96 (VN) HK$6,000.00
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Vinous (94-96)

Deep ruby. Spicy and energetic on the highly perfumed nose, displaying intense black raspberry and cherry scents and strong suggestions of candied lavender and smoky minerals. Supple, sweet and focused on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet energetic red berry liqueur and cherry compote flavors that tighten up steadily with aeration. Shows excellent lift and clarity on the strikingly long, mineral-accented finish, which features lingering raspberry and floral notes and harmonious tannins. The interplay of power and finesse here is really something.
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Rhone 1 91-93 (VN) HK$4,800.00
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Vinous (91-93)

Inky ruby. A complex, deeply perfumed bouquet displays scents of boysenberry, cola, peppery spices and candied flowers, and a smoky mineral note emerges with air. Stains the palate with vibrant red and blue fruit and lavender pastille flavors; juicy acidity and a snap of white pepper provide focus and lift. Impressively balanced and densely packed, finishing with excellent persistence and smooth tannins that are quickly absorbed by the plush fruit.
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Rhone 2 94 (JD) HK$3,000.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (94)

The 2016 Côtes du Rhône Lieu-Dit Clavin comes from vines right around the estate and is always a sensational wine. The 2016 offers notes of blackberries, ground herbs, licorice, and crushed violets. Medium to full-bodied and incredibly well balanced, with serious length, it's another winner. It's going to keep for two decades.
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Rhone 1 99 (JD) HK$5,600.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (99)

I was able to taste the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape multiple times, and it’s the finest vintage I’ve ever tasted from this estate, surpassing even the 2016. Lovers of classic, impeccably made Châteauneuf du Pape should back up the truck on this beauty. A wine of incredible richness and depth, as well as elegance, it has a gorgeous nose of peppery herbs, blackberries, garrigue, cured meats, and sandalwood. Full-bodied and concentrated, it builds incrementally on the palate and is perfectly balanced, with sensational purity, ripe tannins, and a great, great finish. There’s nothing over the top or out of place, and traditionally made Châteauneuf du Pape doesn’t get much better. It needs 2-4 years of bottle age and will shine for well over two decades. Bravo!
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Rhone 1 92 (VN) HK$8,475.84
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Vinous (92)

Good full red. Roasted plum, smoke, licorice and game on the nose; less expressive than the 2001 following the October bottling. Sweet and supple in the mouth, with floral red fruit flavors and a silkiness of texture that reminded me of Burgundy. Sound acids give this 2000 a juicy quality and contribute to the impression of grip.
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Rioja 1 - HK$2,400.00
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Rioja 1 95 (WA) HK$2,400.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

The red flagship 2006 Viña Tondonia Reserva was inspired by the vineyards of the Médoc but produced with local grapes, 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo, which achieved 13% alcohol in 2006. It always matures in used American oak barriques for some six years. The oldest of all the reds I tasted, it was also the one with more freshness, which speaks to the quality of the vineyard. This takes the lion's share of the 400,000 bottles the winery produces, with some 220,000 bottles filled over a period of 12 consecutive days in May 2014.
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Rioja 1 96 (WA) HK$2,400.00
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Wine Advocate (96)

Following the appreciation of the 2007 vintage from María José López de Heredia, the red 2007 Viña Tondonia Reserva is showing great, revealing unusual finesse and elegance. The nose is a little reticent but nuanced and complex, a little shy rather than explosive. The palate is medium-bodied, and the tannins are very refined. This has to be one of the finest vintages of Viña Tondonia Reserva of recent years. 200,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2015.
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Rhone 2 93 HK$7,700.00
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Rarely does a wine exude the excellence of terroir as playfully and profoundly as the Lucien & Andre Brunel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Cailloux 1989. Produced by father-son duo, Lucien and Andre Brunel, whose familial lineage in winemaking dates to the 17th century, this wine comes from Southern Rhône's prestigious Les Cailloux vineyard. This 1989 vintage carries 13% alcohol and boasts of Grenache-led grapes, blended to perfection with Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

Meticulous viticulture methods and sustainable cultivation practices enhance the remarkable complexity of this wine. Enjoy the distinct expression of the heavily pebbled, clay-limestone soil that imparts a unique mineral character. This full-bodied red captivates with its multifaceted bouquet, combining mature, dark fruits, earthy undertones and hints of black chocolate, leading to a rich and lasting finish.

Experience the iconic integrity, grandeur and elegance of the Lucien & Andre Brunel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Cailloux 1989, a cornerstone of a true connoisseur's collection.

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Rhone 1 - HK$24,000.00
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Experience the embodiment of elegance with the Marie et Pierre Benetiere Syrah Cordeloux 2016. Crafted in the Northern Rhône Valley region of France by vintner duo Marie and Pierre Benetiere, this limited-production wine hails from vineyards of schistous soils, grown organically. The grapes are hand-picked and naturally fermented, yielding a wine that mirrors its terroir impeccably. Its luscious bouquet of black cherries, violet, leather, and smoky pepper draws you into a rich, complex palate with robust tannins and an enduring mineral finish. There's a remarkable purity to this wine, instilled by its thoughtful producers, reflecting their passion and dedication to the craftsmanship of fine Syrah wine. Quite simply, the Marie et Pierre Benetiere Syrah Cordeloux 2016 is a testament to the illustrious quality and potential of Condrieu Syrah wines. Savour and appreciate this magnificent example of French oenology.

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Rioja 1 99 (JS) HK$8,900.00
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James Suckling (99)

Marvelous aromas of crushed berries, tobacco, cedar and mushrooms. Some dried cheese. Then turns to flowers. Very complex. Full and intense with fantastic depth and power. It goes on for minutes. It is a wine that exudes tradition but gives a sense of modernity with precise winemaking. Two years in oak, one in concrete and three or four in bottle. Drink on release and age onwards.
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Rioja 1 - HK$5,995.00
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Rioja 1 100 (WA) HK$19,950.00
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Wine Advocate (100)

I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time.
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Rioja 1 98 (JS) HK$4,980.00
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James Suckling (98)

This is amazing traditional Rioja with a complexity and beauty of ripe fruit and long aging. Unique. Full body, ultra-fine tannins, tobacco, vanilla, plums and prunes. It lasts for minutes on the palate. Three years aged in oak and three years in bottle. 80% tempranillo with the rest of the classic varieties. All from high altitude vineyards.
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Rhone 1 96 (WE) HK$3,050.00
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Wine Enthusiast (96)

2016 marks the first bottling of de Nalys under the Guigal umbrella and this intensely ripe but pristine wine makes a promising debut. It's luscious but elegant, loaded with rich black-plum and cassis flavors firmed by piquant hits of licorice and pepper. Silky tannins make it approachable already but the wine should improve through 2036 and hold further still.
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Rhone 1 96 (VN) HK$3,499.00
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Vinous (96)

Inky ruby. Powerful, spice- and smoke-accented aromas of fresh black and blue fruits, candied violet, licorice and cola, along with a hint of exotic spices that builds in the glass. Sweet, palate-staining cassis, boysenberry, floral pastille and licorice flavors turn livelier with air. Impressively concentrated but surprisingly energetic, courtesy of its spine of smoky minerality. Finishes sappy, youthfully chewy and extremely long, with steadily mounting tannins and lingering florality. 25% new oak.
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Rhone 1 96 (VN) HK$2,700.00
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Vinous (96)

Inky ruby. Powerful, spice- and smoke-accented aromas of fresh black and blue fruits, candied violet, licorice and cola, along with a hint of exotic spices that builds in the glass. Sweet, palate-staining cassis, boysenberry, floral pastille and licorice flavors turn livelier with air. Impressively concentrated but surprisingly energetic, courtesy of its spine of smoky minerality. Finishes sappy, youthfully chewy and extremely long, with steadily mounting tannins and lingering florality. 25% new oak.
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Rhone 1 95 (VN) HK$3,000.00
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Vinous (95)

Saturated ruby. An expansive bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, baking spices, candied flowers and licorice, and a smoky mineral quality builds in the glass. Seamless, sweet and broad on the palate, offering deeply concentrated black currant, boysenberry and fruitcake flavors that spread out and take on a spicy nuance with aeration. Manages to be rich and powerful but elegant as well, showing superb balance and velvety, even tannins that shape an extremely long, floral- and dark-fruit-driven finish. 20% new oak.
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Rhone 1 18+ (MJ) HK$1,590.00
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Matthew Jukes (18+)

Following on from the terrific 2018 vintage, this is another exuberant wine with an inky dark hue and masses of swirling, black fruit notes. This is certainly the most exotically perfumed Thalabert I can remember and this reflects the unique fruit concentration and ripeness found in this vintage. Once you taste this wine you see that it is not all about the luxuriously appointed nose because the palate is packed with spice and tension and the finish is positively electric. In terms of accessibility and also potential, this wine is a conundrum – how can something so young and attractive also seem so compact and age-worthy? This is the key to all of Jaboulet’s 2019s. The exquisite balance between ravishing fruit and refreshing, robust tannins is mesmerising. This is a stupendous Thalabert and I think it is a notch up on the brilliant 2018.
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Rhone 1 94 (WA) HK$15,000.00
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Wine Advocate (94)

The 1966 La Chapelle's bouquet possessed the most spectacular and persistent aromas of any wine in the vertical tasting. Dried herbs, new saddle leather, soy, roasted duck, grilled steak, and copious quantities of cassis, blackberry, and prune notes soared from the glass of this spectacularly fragrant effort. The promise exhibited by the bouquet did not come through on the palate. Nevertheless, there is still plenty of life remaining in this glycerin-imbued, expansive, lush, low acid, concentrated La Chapelle.
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Rhone 1 99 (JD) HK$7,634.02
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Jeb Dunnuck (99)

The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle showed incredibly well and is a brilliant wine that's reminiscent of a richer, denser 2011. Loads of sun-kissed dark fruits, leather, graphite, and flowers, with ample spice and sandalwood nuances, give way to a full-bodied, pure, deep, multi-dimensional Hermitage that’s just about as good as it gets. The balance, length, and depth of this is something to behold, and while it unquestionably offers pleasure today, it has another 20-30 years of prime drinking ahead of it.
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Rhone 3 20++ (MJ) HK$7,800.00
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Matthew Jukes (20++)

Like La Maison Bleue, La Chapelle barely moved an inch over the five days that it sat open (and gradually oxidising) on my tasting bench. This is a monumental wine with the finest Syrah nose I have seen since the ethereal and intriguing beauty of the remarkable 2016 vintage and also the monolithic stance of the legendary 1990. However, this is not to say that this vintage can be directly compared to either year. There is a latent power about this wine that is as elusive as it is impressive. This solaire vintage has certainly given La Chapelle a sense of foreboding power and yet there is so much grace here, too. You could be sniffing a handful of granite and gravel, a bouquet of freshly picked herbs, a mortar of freshly ground pepper or a punnet of juicy black fruit and yet there is so much more to discover here. What I find so remarkable about this wine is that it does not show any trace of over-ripeness nor does it have any unwanted oiliness or excessive alcohol. In spite of its richness and depth, this is a pristinely refreshing wine with crunch and crackle of filigree tannin which enlivens every sip. In this regard, it is a far less obvious superstar than the preening 1990 and it is a more erudite and statuesque model than the esoteric 2016. In short, this is one of only a handful of vintages of La Chapelle to which I have awarded a perfect score and who is to say that this will not happen again before too long? The care and attention in this entire portfolio of wines are evident and the hard work and holistic approach are not only paying off in the vineyards but also in the glass, too, and this makes 2019 another phenomenally successful vintage for Jaboulet.
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