Wine Advocate (100)

I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time.

Wine Advocate (95)

The 2019 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is fascinatingly pure, bright, refined and flinty on the nose that reveals very fine Riesling, slate and iron aromas. Pure, fresh and filigreed on the palate, this is a crystalline, fresh and piquant, crisp and crystalline JSU Spätlese in the acidity-accentuated MFR style. The finish is pure and salty, piquant and concise and makes this an exciting wine to try again in 20 years. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.

Wine Advocate (94)

From vines planted in the 1890s, the 2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling GG "Uralte Reben" trocken is still quite reductive on the nose but very fine, bright and floral on the delicately slatey and intensely fruity yet subtle nose. Intense and powerful on the palate (at 11.5% alcohol!), this is a crystalline, tight and salty Sonnenuhr with still shy mirabelle aromas on the nose. It is beautifully pure and filigreed yet long and intense—a wine that deserves our patience and attention for 20 or more years. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.

Everything you'd expect from a Merlot presented by Mollydooker. Big, voluptuous and uncompromising, yes; but it does maintain varietal correctness. Showing Deep red and black fruit mingled with some cocoa powder and spicy clove elements. Delicious.

Halliday Wine Companion (99)

Rare is in a class of its own. Extraordinarily complex, taking on umami complexity, dark chocolate studded with salt flakes, raisins soaked in molasses and more besides. Rich and sweet, but definitely not burdened by all that because it has life, a lemony acidity and a freshness throughout.

Jancis Robinson (18.5)

Pale, particularly bright garnet. Light, spicy, particularly well-integrated nose. Already well developed. Sweet start and very nicely mature. Seems just right now. The opposite of heavy. Lifted, jewel-bright. Really lovely wine. Fresh, sweet with some very slight mintiness. Dry finish and it would go beautifully with food. Very long. One of my favourite wines in this collection. Is it the Cinsault I like so much?

James Suckling (97)

This has such attractively fleshy red and dark cherry. Sweetly earthy. The oak is spicy and nicely placed among intense ripe and vibrant cherries. There’s plushness to the supple, fleshy palate. Smoothly rendered and juicy with rich dark cherry to close. The acidity is pitch perfect. Mouthwatering, delicious pinot. Drink or hold.

Greg Sherwood MW (97-99)

This lovely signature Niepoort 2019 vintage Port apparently has higher tannins than the famed 2017, but at this youthful stage, it is hard to comprehend this with its rich, accessible, voluptuous layers of silky, juicy soft black fruits. Benchmark certainly, a notable success – absolutely. The aromatics are so much more important than the palate flavours at this early blending phase (according to Dirk) and this enticing 2019 shows attractive notes of sweet sun ripened black berry fruits, hints of creamy molasses, savoury black stewed winter orchard fruits and a dusty, stony, smoked cigars complexity. Beautifully silky, supple and textured, there is also a fine, stony, grippy mineral tannin mouthfeel that lends a wonderful frame for the juicy blue and black berry fruit finery to be displayed. Fabulously drinkable, deliciously fresh and vibrant, but eminently bold and characterful, this is certainly another very accomplished wine from the House of Niepoort. (Residual Sugar: 88 g/l RS)

Immerse yourself in the enchanting allure of the Nikka 2000s Yoichi Single Malt NV, an exquisite whisky hailing from the esteemed Yoichi Distillery in Hokkaido, Japan. This award-winning distillery, founded by the legendary Masataka Taketsuru, is famed for adhering to traditional methods, ensuring each barrel yields an utterly unique taste profile. The Nikka 2000s Yoichi Single Malt NV is a perfect embodiment of this pursuit of excellence.

Characterised by its bold, peaty flavour entwined with soft, well-aged tones of autumn fruits; this bespoke single malt is a true testament to the intricate art of Japanese whisky-making. Pleasing to both nose and palate, it seduces with a delightful mix of sweetness and spice, leaving a lingering trail of smoke. Expertly crafted to emulate the same level of sophistication as its predecessors, the Nikka 2000s Yoichi Single Malt NV is the perfect addition to any discerning connoisseur's collection.

Jancis Robinson (17+)

58% Chardonnay, 31% Pinot Noir, 11% Pinot Meunier. Vintages: 70% 2014, 4% 2013, 6% 2011, 9% 2010, 10% 2009, 1% 2008. Four years on lees. Disgorged May 2019. Outstanding nose, with all the bready complexity of great sparkling. Saline and zippy, with excellent apple and lemon fruit on the palate. Not at all sharp, with excellent balance and flesh on the body. Mature, mushroomy character on the finish. Expertly done. (RH)

Vinous (98)

The 2015 Ornellaia is a dream wine with magnificent balance. All the elements are in the right place. In most vintages, Ornellaia needs time to fully come together, but the 2015 is just impeccable, even in the early going. The warm vintage notwithstanding, winemaker Axel Heinz crafted and Ornellaia is more about finesse and power. The potent, bruising tannins Ornellaia can show as a young wine are nowhere to be found. Bright raspberry jam, mint, white flowers and pomegranate are some of the many notes that punctuate the finish in a memorable Ornellaia that will go down among the great vintages produced at this reference-point estate.

Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

From a great vintage for Bolgheri, the 2016 Ornellaia is a classic blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot that was aged 20 months in 70% new French oak. Its saturated purple color is followed by a deep, beautifully concentrated yet primordial effort that offers serious intensity in its cassis, black cherry, graphite, bay leaf, forest floor, and spring flower aromas and flavors. Full-bodied and multi-dimensional on the palate, it has thrilling purity of fruit, ample tannins, and a great, great finish. This is a tour de force in red wine that needs 4-5 years of bottle age and will keep for two decades.

Jeb Dunnuck (98+)

From a great vintage for Bolgheri, the 2016 Ornellaia is a classic blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot that was aged 20 months in 70% new French oak. Its saturated purple color is followed by a deep, beautifully concentrated yet primordial effort that offers serious intensity in its cassis, black cherry, graphite, bay leaf, forest floor, and spring flower aromas and flavors. Full-bodied and multi-dimensional on the palate, it has thrilling purity of fruit, ample tannins, and a great, great finish. This is a tour de force in red wine that needs 4-5 years of bottle age and will keep for two decades.

James Suckling (97)

A big, rich wine for the vintage, yet poised and lively with firm, chewy tannins that give form and intensity to the wine. It shows loads of blackberry, blackcurrant and walnut flavors. Ripe yet polished tannins. Give this three or four years to come together.

Vinous (97)

The 2018 Ornellaia is an introvert at this stage. Medium in body, with terrific persistence and impeccable balance, the 2018 is not in any mood to show all its cards today. Hints of red berry fruit, mocha, spice, licorice and dried flowers emerge with a bit of coaxing. I won’t be surprised to see it put on weight with more time in bottle. There is certainly plenty to look forward to. Readers should expect a silky, aromatic Ornellaia in line with vintages such as 2004 that are more about finesse than raw power. This is the first time in which Merlot drives the blend in Ornellaia.

The Wine Independent (100)

The Ornellaia 2019 with 62% has the most Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend since the 65% used in the 2001 and 2002 vintages. It is bold and bright on the nose, full of joyful blackberry, cream, and sweet spice. It is very much like the 2016 Ornellaia in terms of finesse and harmony but bigger, bolder, more youthful, and maybe on a larger scale in terms of the brightness of aromas and flavors. On standing the nose becomes much more nuanced and fragrant with blue flowers like iris and violet. There is great concentration on the palate, but it is held together within a very elegant, tight structure. This is a powerful style of Ornellaia but with the 2019 the tannins are more refined than ever and there is a thrilling acidity enlivening the palate! According to Axel Heinz, Director of the Estate, "I think we have learned to tame the tannins.” This 2019 Ornellaia is a beautiful, luxurious, and vivacious wine.

Matthew Jukes (20+)

An long-forgotten image flashed into my mind when I first tasted this wine. It took me back to a visit, as a child, to a stately home. Goodness knows where this place was, but I remember walking down a long corridor when a huge door opened to my left. As I walked past, I caught a glimpse of the most glamorous and beautifully decorated room beyond the person holding the door ajar. The door closed, and I passed by, but this image has stuck with me ever since. This momentary glimpse of incredible splendour is echoed in this magnificent wine. It starts midnight black in the glass, then as one focuses on the surface, can one see stars? Interestingly, it finishes black, too, in the form of ultra-fine sooty tannins that caress the taste buds as the flavour senesces. Between these two moments of perfect calm, there is layer upon layer of splendour and magnificence. The keyword for this vintage is ‘proportion’, as I found out half an hour through the presentation. It is an inspired choice because every element of 2020 Ornellaia is in scintillating proportion. 2020 Ornellaia represents more than harmony or balance and more than composure and equilibrium – it is truly in perfect proportion. In fact, I have never tasted a vintage of Ornellaia like it. There is a sense of greatness here, both in the intensity of the fruit and also its freshness and lift on the nose and palate – it is astonishing. The Cabernet theme (the blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot) is dominant both in the primary fruit notes but also in the signature flavours. Merlot adds glossiness and also traction, while Cabernet Franc appears to add grace and also crispness and aromatic flourishes. Petit Verdot acts as the invisible welds that pin this magnificent structure together – a complete three-dimensional flavour with no apparent flaws whatsoever. This wine will undoubtedly drink early in its life, given the silkiness and generosity on display, but it will not genuinely get into its stride for a decade, and I feel it will take another decade for it to blossom fully. My childlike fascination with today’s glimpse into the glass will no doubt grow into a full-blown stroll around this wine with the door flung open wide in years to come. This wine will prove to those with the good fortune to own it that its best is yet to come, so be patient in spite of its early allure. Until then, I do not doubt that it is a work of perfect proportion, so I am delighted to award it my first-ever perfect score for Ornellaia.

The 2016 Palmer Historical XIX, a vintage now widely recognised as one of the greatest vintages in modern times in both Bordeaux and the Rhône Valley. Jancis Robinson suggests that 2016 is “the best Bordeaux vintage I will probably ever taste” across her extensive career as a Master of Wine.

Château Palmer was the pinnacle of success in 2016 achieving four perfect 100-point scores, giving Bordeaux collector’s even more reason than normal to eagerly add this sought-after wine to their collection.

This wine offers a rare, unique and fascinating historical insight into the history of Bordeaux. It is a collector’s gem, with around 4,500 bottles made.

Wine Advocate (95)

Rated - No tasting note given.

Vinous - Antonio Galloni (96)

Lemon peel, white flowers, mint and slate are some of the many notes that are woven throughout the 2014 Pavillon Blanc. The interplay of bright, citrus-driven flavors and palate texture is compelling. This is the first vintage in which a portion of the Blanc was aged in 500-liter barrels, a format that helps preserve freshness and tension. In early 2015, I thought the Pavillon Blanc could be the most compelling of Margaux's 2014s. I still feel the same way.

Wine Advocate (100)

A new addition to the Penfolds lineup, the 2016 Bin 111A Shiraz is a blend of Clare (51%) and Barossa (49%) fruit from vineyards that have previously contributed to Grange. Aged in 100% new French oak, it's a rich, luxuriously textured wine that's packed with ripe fruit and finely textured tannins. Hints of grilled meat and exotic dried spices accent red raspberries and redcurrants in this full-bodied but exceptionally silky and elegant red that meets the high expectations for such a pricey bottling.

Wine Enthusiast (100)

This famed Champagne comes from one of the steepest vineyards in the whole region, facing across the Marne river. With a blend of 71% Pinot Noir and 29% Chardonnay, the densely textured wine shows great richness, a magnificent sense of place and structure. This is a very fine wine, a monument among Champagnes, one that will age for many more years. Drink through 2030.

Wine Spectator (98)

A beautifully bright and expressive Champagne, with precision and vivid acidity throughout; roasted coffee bean and graphite notes lead to a rich palate of toasted brioche, crystallized honey, bergamot and crème de cassis. Exotic ground spice details of cardamom, ginger and anise show on the finish. Tasted from magnum. Drink now through 2030.

Decanter (98)

Best in Show 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir With fourteen years' ageing under its belt, this Champagne has had time to gather and marshal all its resources - which it does with great style and assurance. It's a pale, glowing lemon yellow, with a fine mousse and ample wealth of billowing vanilla, cream and plump hazels. The palate has dramatic intensity and drive, delivering a wealth of chalky lemon; its athleticism and vigour almost come as a surprise after that floating veil of seductive scent. A fresh, mouth-cleansing finish completes the appeal of this skilful, sagely judged blend from a hugely likeable vintage.

Vinous (96)

A heady, flamboyant wine, the 2016 Sondraia is simply magnificent. Super-ripe red cherry, plum, cedar, tobacco, mocha and licorice are some of the many notes that just soar out of the glass. Vibrancy and opulence come together in a stylish Bolgheri red that delivers the goods big time. The oak is perhaps a bit prominent, but everything about the 2016 works beautifully. This is a fabulous showing from Poggio al Tesoro.

Wine Advocate (95)

Great elegance and finesse already on the perfectly brilliant and aromatic nose shows Pol Roger's 2008 Blanc de Blancs Brut, displaying white and stewed apples with fine citrus flavors and discreet chalky aromas. The palate is dense and citric, as if limes and lemons are squeezed on a chalky rock. The purity, power and intensity is as remarkable, as is the finesse and persistence of the bubbles, the mousse on the palate and the long, persistent finish. Dosed with seven grams per liter, this extraordinary Blanc de Blanc Brut tastes drier than the Réserve Brut, but reveals a perfect ripeness of yellow fruits. The finish is lovely aromatic and intense, but also clear, fresh, firm and absolutely stimulating. This is a great Blanc de Blancs from the Grand Cru villages of Oiry, Chouilly, Cramant, Avize and Oger.

Contains 1 bottle each of Beauséjour Duffau, Clinet, Clos Fourtet, Cos d'Estournel, Ducru Beaucaillou, Evangile, Léoville Poyferré, Montrose, Pavie, Pontet Canet, Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge and Pape Clement Blanc