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Champagne 1 19 (JR) HK$12,388.00
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Jancis Robinson (19)

A blend of 198 wines from 11 different years, with the youngest the acclaimed 2012, back to a precious, powerfully aromatic lot of Verzenay Pinot Noir 1996. The final blend – 52% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 13% Meunier – was bottled in 2013 and aged for seven years in Krug’s cellars in Reims. Yields in 2012 were 20% lower than usual because of a succession of meteorological events including frost, rain, storms and hail in winter and spring 2012, followed by the driest ripening season since 1974. Notably intense aroma with crème pâtissière dominant. Masses of extract and remarkable acidity underpinned by great depth of flavour and beautiful balance on the finish. I think this is going to be a really great, glamorous Krug Grande Cuvée that will continue to develop in bottle for many years to come. I suspect it will be even more enjoyable from the end of 2020. The length on the palate is remarkable. This is magnificently precise, a great tribute to the work of the old cellarmaster Eric Lebel, who is still in the background, and a wonderful welcome to his successor Julie Cavil, who has been learning from him since 2006.
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Rhone 1 99 (JD) HK$3,680.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (99)

Bottled end of February/early in March, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chaupin is incredible stuff, and while I suspect it’s the best vintage to date, it’s going to be great comparing it to bottles of the 2005, 2007, 2010, and 2015 over the coming 15+ years. This beauty offers a thrilling blend of kirsch, blackberries, smoked earth, graphite, and licorice on the nose. It's full-bodied, deep, pure, ultra-fine, and powerful on the palate and flirts with perfection. It’s a tour de force in Grenache that readers need to snatch up!
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Rhone 1 93-95 (VN) HK$5,200.00
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Vinous (93-95)

Brilliant magenta. Ripe red and blue fruits, potpourri, incense and Moroccan spices on the deeply perfumed, expansive nose. Stains the palate with sweet boysenberry, black raspberry and floral pastille flavors, which are sharpened by building mineral and white pepper flourishes. Shows the depth and power of the vintage but comes off lively, even graceful. Delivers strong floral thrust on the extremely long, gently tannic finish.
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Rhone 1 100 (JD) HK$3,600.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (100)

The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Prestige Blanc is pure gold and a magical, perfect wine from this incredible family estate. Based largely on Roussanne with smaller amounts of Grenache Blanc and Clairette, it was brought up in used demi-muids. Honeyed pineapple, caramelized white peach, mango, honeysuckle, and exotic rose petal notes all emerge from this full-bodied white, which has bright acidity, incredible depth of fruit, and flawless balance. This extraordinary white needs plenty of air to show at its best (you could even open it the day before and keep it in the refrigerator overnight), and I suspect it will have two decades or more of overall longevity.
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Rhone 1 98-100 (JD) HK$8,860.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (98-100)

Incorporating 8% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah and 5% other permitted variety, 60% destemmed, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes sports a deep, inky color as well as sensational notes of black currants, smoked meats, earth and crushed rocks. Deep, rich, unctuous and decadent, with huge extract and richness, yet never over the top or overripe, it's a killer wine that's going to flirt with perfection on release.
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Rhone 1 97 (WA) HK$7,520.00
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Wine Advocate (97)

The 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes derives from parcels planted on classic clay and galets roulés soils. It's 65% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah and 5% other varieties. Tight, intense, even clenched, it's in need of several years' cellaring before it becomes truly enjoyable to drink. For now, those gorgeous black cherries are restrained behind a firm wall of tannins. Full-bodied and rich, this is ripe, it just requires patience.
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Rhone 4 94-96 (VN) HK$6,000.00
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Vinous (94-96)

Deep ruby. Spicy and energetic on the highly perfumed nose, displaying intense black raspberry and cherry scents and strong suggestions of candied lavender and smoky minerals. Supple, sweet and focused on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet energetic red berry liqueur and cherry compote flavors that tighten up steadily with aeration. Shows excellent lift and clarity on the strikingly long, mineral-accented finish, which features lingering raspberry and floral notes and harmonious tannins. The interplay of power and finesse here is really something.
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Rhone 1 91-93 (VN) HK$4,800.00
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Vinous (91-93)

Inky ruby. A complex, deeply perfumed bouquet displays scents of boysenberry, cola, peppery spices and candied flowers, and a smoky mineral note emerges with air. Stains the palate with vibrant red and blue fruit and lavender pastille flavors; juicy acidity and a snap of white pepper provide focus and lift. Impressively balanced and densely packed, finishing with excellent persistence and smooth tannins that are quickly absorbed by the plush fruit.
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Champagne 1 97 (JS) HK$10,000.00
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James Suckling (97)

Full body. Lightly chewy. Phenolic tension gives it form and beauty. This is the first year to use numbers. 55% chardonnay and 45% pinot noir. 2007, 2006 and 2004. Drink or hold.
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Champagne 2 93 HK$3,800.00
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Bordeaux 1 - HK$420.00
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Exquisite and masterfully crafted, Le Puy Emilien 2014 is an organic, biodynamic Bordeaux blend from the lauded estate Château le Puy in the unadulterated hilly landscapes of Saint-Cibard. Ethereal with complex aromas, this enchanting ruby red wine boasts a rich tapestry of dried fruits, spice mix, and leather undertones. The grounded earthiness and persistent tannins intertwine, surrendering to a lingering fruity finish that signifies maturation in large, century-old foudres enhancing its smooth character. The Amoreau family, traditional wine artisans with 500 years of heritage, have unveiled an exceptional vintage which mirrors the mineral-infused clay and limestone soils of their vineyard. The family's diligent care for their ungrafted vines, absence of synthetic chemicals, and reliance on the biodynamic calendar reflect the natural vinification of the Le Puy Emilien 2014. A true connoisseur will revel in this Bordeaux blend's authentic French character, a testament to steadfast tradition and unabridged passion.

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Rhone 1 99 (JD) HK$5,600.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (99)

I was able to taste the 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape multiple times, and it’s the finest vintage I’ve ever tasted from this estate, surpassing even the 2016. Lovers of classic, impeccably made Châteauneuf du Pape should back up the truck on this beauty. A wine of incredible richness and depth, as well as elegance, it has a gorgeous nose of peppery herbs, blackberries, garrigue, cured meats, and sandalwood. Full-bodied and concentrated, it builds incrementally on the palate and is perfectly balanced, with sensational purity, ripe tannins, and a great, great finish. There’s nothing over the top or out of place, and traditionally made Châteauneuf du Pape doesn’t get much better. It needs 2-4 years of bottle age and will shine for well over two decades. Bravo!
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Rhone 1 92 (VN) HK$8,475.84
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Vinous (92)

Good full red. Roasted plum, smoke, licorice and game on the nose; less expressive than the 2001 following the October bottling. Sweet and supple in the mouth, with floral red fruit flavors and a silkiness of texture that reminded me of Burgundy. Sound acids give this 2000 a juicy quality and contribute to the impression of grip.
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Champagne 4 97 (VN) HK$11,950.00 HK$9,950.00
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Vinous (97)

A wine of sublime delicacy and finesse, the 2009 Cristal Rosé is simply magnificent. The 2009 is surprisingly refined, silky and nuanced for a wine from a warm vintage. The red and floral-infused overtones are quite attractive, but it is the wine's exceptional balance that places it among the best new releases of the year. Over the years, I have had the chance to taste many vintages of Cristal Rosé, a Champagne that needs bottle age to be at its very best. I suspect that will be the case here as well. Don't miss it.
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Champagne 1 99 (JD) HK$11,305.00
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Jeb Dunnuck (99)

Just about as good as it gets, the 2012 Cristal Rosé is a magical effort based on 56% Pinot Noir and 44% Chardonnay. It’s a powerful, medium to full-bodied, incredibly textured rosé offering a huge amount of salty, chalky minerality as well as awesome notes of white cherries, orange blossom, caramelized apples, and toasted bread. It shows the ripe, rounded richness of the 2012 vintage yet has bright, racy acidity, perfect balance, and a great, great finish. It opens up nicely with air and will ideally be given 2-4 years of bottle age, and it should evolve for 2-3 decades.
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Champagne 1 99 (WA) HK$11,540.00
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Wine Advocate (99)

A candidate for wine-of-the-vintage honors in Champagne, Roederer's 2013 Cristal Rosé is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with notes of crisp orchard fruit, white flowers, red berries, stone fruit, freshly baked bread and tangerine oil. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, the vintage's bright girdling acids are amply cloaked in exuberant, expressive and notably concentrated fruit; so while this Cristal is as tensile and age-worthy as one would expect, it's also impressively fleshy and generous given the year. Concluding with an intensely sapid finish, the 2013 isn't as overtly structured as the muscular, tightly wound 2012: rather, it's the 2013's alliance of cut and flesh, precision and charm that's so compelling this year. This is another banner vintage for what I consider the reigning champion of the region's tête de cuvée bottlings, and it will be worth an effort to acquire.
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Champagne 1 97 (VN) HK$12,200.00
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Vinous (97)

The 2007 Cristal Rosé opens with the most captivating, extraordinary bouquet imaginable. Sweet, exquisite and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2007 is intense yet weightless, with extraordinary overall balance and remarkable finesse. Today, the 2007 Cristal Rosé is a wine of pure seduction. There is little doubt the 2007 is a great Cristal Rosé in the making. This is the first vintage in which all of the fruit was farmed according to biodynamic principles. According to winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, biodynamic farming has brought increased aromatic presence in the fruit and also given the Pinot a bit more intensity than normal, so much so that in 2007 the blend is 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay as opposed to the 60/40 split that has been more typical over the years. In 2007, the fruit was picked in August, which is also unusual, but bud break got off to an early start, so the growing season turned out to be longer than the classic 100-day period that is typical from bud-break to harvest. All of that means the 2007 Cristal Rosé is a much more classic-feeling wine that one might have expected.
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Rhone 2 93 HK$7,700.00
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Rarely does a wine exude the excellence of terroir as playfully and profoundly as the Lucien & Andre Brunel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Cailloux 1989. Produced by father-son duo, Lucien and Andre Brunel, whose familial lineage in winemaking dates to the 17th century, this wine comes from Southern Rhône's prestigious Les Cailloux vineyard. This 1989 vintage carries 13% alcohol and boasts of Grenache-led grapes, blended to perfection with Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault.

Meticulous viticulture methods and sustainable cultivation practices enhance the remarkable complexity of this wine. Enjoy the distinct expression of the heavily pebbled, clay-limestone soil that imparts a unique mineral character. This full-bodied red captivates with its multifaceted bouquet, combining mature, dark fruits, earthy undertones and hints of black chocolate, leading to a rich and lasting finish.

Experience the iconic integrity, grandeur and elegance of the Lucien & Andre Brunel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Les Cailloux 1989, a cornerstone of a true connoisseur's collection.

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Rioja 1 99 (JS) HK$8,900.00
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James Suckling (99)

Marvelous aromas of crushed berries, tobacco, cedar and mushrooms. Some dried cheese. Then turns to flowers. Very complex. Full and intense with fantastic depth and power. It goes on for minutes. It is a wine that exudes tradition but gives a sense of modernity with precise winemaking. Two years in oak, one in concrete and three or four in bottle. Drink on release and age onwards.
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Rioja 1 - HK$5,995.00
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Rioja 1 100 (WA) HK$19,950.00
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Wine Advocate (100)

I have been terribly excited about this wine since I first learned that (part of) it was still in cement waiting to be bottled in September 2013. I consider the rare white Castillo Ygay one of the greatest white wines ever produced in Spain, and the 1986 Castillo Ygay Blanco Gran Reserva Especial is a great addition to the portfolio of the winery--an historic wine that is coming back to life. I did a vertical tasting of many of the old, historic vintages of this wine, and they are included in a separate article in this very same issue. This 1986 had seen the light as a limited early release bottled in 1992 and sold around 1995, and some bottles might still be found in the market. But most of it remained unbottled and was kept at the winery, where it stayed in oak for 21 years, followed by some six years in cement vats until it was bottled. It has 13.5% alcohol, an extremely low pH of 2.98 and 6.75 grams of acidity (tartaric). It has a very subtle nose and it's a bit shy, a little closed at first. It was only bottled one and a half years ago, and it's not crazy to say that the wine is showing extremely young. The wine shows more open the day after, when it has developed some nuances of mushrooms and verbena tea. This is mostly Viura with perhaps a pinch of Malvasía Riojana (aka Alarije). The palate is both powerful and elegant, with superb acidity and great length, with volume and sharpness, with a mineral, umami-driven finish. It fills your mouth, tickles your taste buds and makes you salivate. There is nothing negative about the wine; there is no excess oak, nothing blurry, nothing to improve... perhaps the bottle used! I think this is a perfect wine. It seems to be getting younger and younger with time in the glass; it seems to be getting more focused and sharper, and I have no doubt the wine will evolve and last for a very, very, very long time in bottle. I kept the opened bottle for almost one week and the wine didn't move one inch--no oxidation or any signs of fatigue. Having tasted many other vintages, including the also perfect 1919 (which is still going strong at age 97), I have no doubt we're talking about a white for the next 50 years. Looking at the older vintages, I might even be underestimating its life span. The potential next release could be the 1998 in no less than ten years' time.
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Mosel 1 95 (WA) HK$1,825.00
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Wine Advocate (95)

The 2019 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese is fascinatingly pure, bright, refined and flinty on the nose that reveals very fine Riesling, slate and iron aromas. Pure, fresh and filigreed on the palate, this is a crystalline, fresh and piquant, crisp and crystalline JSU Spätlese in the acidity-accentuated MFR style. The finish is pure and salty, piquant and concise and makes this an exciting wine to try again in 20 years. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.
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Mosel 1 94 (WA) HK$2,300.00
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Wine Advocate (94)

From vines planted in the 1890s, the 2019 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling GG "Uralte Reben" trocken is still quite reductive on the nose but very fine, bright and floral on the delicately slatey and intensely fruity yet subtle nose. Intense and powerful on the palate (at 11.5% alcohol!), this is a crystalline, tight and salty Sonnenuhr with still shy mirabelle aromas on the nose. It is beautifully pure and filigreed yet long and intense—a wine that deserves our patience and attention for 20 or more years. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.
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Sendai 1 - HK$4,500.00
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As a discerning connoisseur, the Miyagikyo Single Malt 2000's NV is a sensory treat to your palate. Exquisitely created by the prestige Nikka Whisky Distilling Company, this exquisite malt embraces the artisanal mastery inherent to Nikka's second distillery, Miyagikyo. Located amidst the serene setting of Sendai's picturesque north, the malt mirrors its verdant surroundings, featuring hints of fruity sweetness and spice merged with a soft smoke. Harvested in the early 2000's, this revered spirit is a snapshot of the distillery's unique evolution over the years. Distilled meticulously with copper pot stills, savouring Miyagikyo Single Malt 2000's is a journey through Nikka's sophisticated whisky making process. Rich, complex, yet smoothly balanced, each sip of this fine spirit unveils layers which evocatively depict Miyagikyo's inherent character. As a revered addition to any collection, Miyagikyo Single Malt 2000's NV is the epitome of Nikka's bold innovation and enduring legacy.

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South Australia 1 - HK$4,000.00
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Everything you'd expect from a Merlot presented by Mollydooker. Big, voluptuous and uncompromising, yes; but it does maintain varietal correctness. Showing Deep red and black fruit mingled with some cocoa powder and spicy clove elements. Delicious.
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NA 1 99 (HWC) HK$4,009.00
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Halliday Wine Companion (99)

Rare is in a class of its own. Extraordinarily complex, taking on umami complexity, dark chocolate studded with salt flakes, raisins soaked in molasses and more besides. Rich and sweet, but definitely not burdened by all that because it has life, a lemony acidity and a freshness throughout.
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Bekaa Valley 1 18.5 (JR) HK$3,075.00
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Jancis Robinson (18.5)

Pale, particularly bright garnet. Light, spicy, particularly well-integrated nose. Already well developed. Sweet start and very nicely mature. Seems just right now. The opposite of heavy. Lifted, jewel-bright. Really lovely wine. Fresh, sweet with some very slight mintiness. Dry finish and it would go beautifully with food. Very long. One of my favourite wines in this collection. Is it the Cinsault I like so much?
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Rhone 1 96 (WE) HK$3,050.00
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Wine Enthusiast (96)

2016 marks the first bottling of de Nalys under the Guigal umbrella and this intensely ripe but pristine wine makes a promising debut. It's luscious but elegant, loaded with rich black-plum and cassis flavors firmed by piquant hits of licorice and pepper. Silky tannins make it approachable already but the wine should improve through 2036 and hold further still.
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Nelson 1 97 (JS) HK$2,490.00
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James Suckling (97)

This has such attractively fleshy red and dark cherry. Sweetly earthy. The oak is spicy and nicely placed among intense ripe and vibrant cherries. There’s plushness to the supple, fleshy palate. Smoothly rendered and juicy with rich dark cherry to close. The acidity is pitch perfect. Mouthwatering, delicious pinot. Drink or hold.
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Porto 1 97-99 (GS) HK$3,716.00
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Greg Sherwood MW (97-99)

This lovely signature Niepoort 2019 vintage Port apparently has higher tannins than the famed 2017, but at this youthful stage, it is hard to comprehend this with its rich, accessible, voluptuous layers of silky, juicy soft black fruits. Benchmark certainly, a notable success – absolutely. The aromatics are so much more important than the palate flavours at this early blending phase (according to Dirk) and this enticing 2019 shows attractive notes of sweet sun ripened black berry fruits, hints of creamy molasses, savoury black stewed winter orchard fruits and a dusty, stony, smoked cigars complexity. Beautifully silky, supple and textured, there is also a fine, stony, grippy mineral tannin mouthfeel that lends a wonderful frame for the juicy blue and black berry fruit finery to be displayed. Fabulously drinkable, deliciously fresh and vibrant, but eminently bold and characterful, this is certainly another very accomplished wine from the House of Niepoort. (Residual Sugar: 88 g/l RS)
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