The Real Review (97)

A blend of merlot, cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon from Gimblett Gravels. Supremely elegant wine with an array of dark berry and spice flavours. A youthful wine from a top vintage and with masses of cellaring potential. This really is a classic

Decanter (97)

A particularly floral expression, with lavender and violets on the nose among the apricot fruit. Full-bodied, but still fluid on the palate, this has a real intensity and freshness, a sense of tension and minerality. Long finish that's not overburdened by oak. This has a sense of straightness and direction despite the breadth on the palate and open aromatic display. Very well balanced, finishing floral. Selection of parcels grown on biotite granite, vinified then aged nine months in barriques and foudres. Drinking Window 2021 - 2030

English critic Matthew Jukes has declared that Lionel's wines are 'worth their weight in gold', and we certainly think that is the case with this Cupano Vino Rosso 4th Edition NV. This is made from a blend of barrels that taste excellent but do not feel ready in time when Cupano blended their Montalcino releases so they were left aside. Instead of waiting to use it for a Brunello that might disrupt the usual annual releases of the estate wines, it has instead become a upmarket 'vin de copains' - wine for friends.

 

This 4th Edition comes from the 2018 and 2019 vintages and is made from 80% Sangiovese that would normally be used in their Brunello di Montalcino or Rosso di Montalcino and 20% Merlot that would usually be used in their superb Super Tuscan Ombrone. With the power on the nose and palate that Cupano is usually associated with, this shows all the wonderful Sangiovese character one could want without the oak that a young Brunello would show.

waiting to use it for a Brunello that might disrupt the usual annual releases of the estate wines, it has instead become a upmarket 'vin de copains' - wine for friends.

 

For each new Vino Rosso release, famous french artist Gerard Fromanger paints a special new label and this 4th edition is the most impressive yet. While production has been upped from the last release, this 4th Edition is still made in tiny quantities with only 830 six packs made.

Decanter (94)

Wonderful florality on the nose, perfumed and full of black cherries. Great freshness here, such good juice content, immediately so alive and fresh, there is a real buzz to this wine with some creamy/chalky edges that are so refreshing. Great personality with vibrant fruit. Rich and layered, super concentrated but with this fun lively aspect. Tannins are chewy and ripe because of the weather but there's a great lift and sense of life to this. I really like it. A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.

Matthew Jukes (20+)

Garrus is always awesome and, every so often, it is completely unpredictable. The 2019s from Château d’Esclans are sublime and Garrus ought to be the most obviously masculine and imposing in the portfolio but, strangely, I felt that the perfume and the initial attack was positively gentle and come-hither in its composure and allure. So, I did what any right-minded person would do and relaxed into another sip. I then realised that I had been tricked! Garrus is as structured and proud as ever and yet it is sporting a kindly disguise to lull you into a false sense of security. Many will drink this wine too early, fooled by the glossiness and initial enchantment on offer. But they will soon realise that this wine’s finish is firm and unyielding, pointing to a long and graceful life - as long as you have the patience. This is a sensational vintage for Garrus and I rate it as highly as the epic 2015 and that means that this is a perfect 20/20 in my notes. Nothing comes close in 2019 (apart from its sibling, Les Clans – you can find a write-up on this wine on this website) and I have tasted hundreds of bottles. The difference between this wine and the 2015 is the ’15 was very obviously statuesque with amazing flanks and bold musculature. By contrast, this 2019 is subtle, brooding, complex and intricately perfumed. While the nose is cool and soothing, the palate is a veritable iceberg of power and equilibrium and while we can only sense the scale of grandeur of this wine, the signposts on the surface are already devastatingly attractive. You simply must buy and keep this wine for at least twelve months before you pop a cork! 20+/20

Decanter (91)

From one of the most well-known rosé brands around the world, Rock Angel is the bigger, more intense and nuanced brother to Whispering Angel. Pale blush pink in colour, this is lively and refreshing with the depth and structure to pair well with food. A blend of Grenache and Vermentino, this offers white flower and raspberry notes on the nose and a blend of apple, pink grapefruit and summer berries on the palate. One to try if you like the other wines in the stable.

Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (94)

Depth and power through the mid palate, good quality tannins, this is classically restrained St Estèphe power, with savoury yet juicy black fruits. Living up to its potential En Primeur, one to look out for, and a strong 2nd wine that beats out many 1st wines in the vintage. If you liked the Dame de Montrose 2010, get on board with this.

Tim Atkin MW (96)

One of a trio of world-class single site Chenin Blancs from David and Nadie Sadie (no relation to Eben, by the way), this hails from a two-hectare vineyard that was planted in 1968 and is often picked late. Completing full malolactic - such is the acidity in the grapes - this is leesy, focused and taut, with some ferrous grip and a textured palate. 2021-29

Tim Atkin MW (96)

Skaliekop is a shallow shale site on the Paardebosch farm that benefited from the addition of moisture-retaining mulch in 2019. Yeasty, leesy and broader than the other two single vineyard Sadie Chenins, this has notes of citrus peel and beeswax, plenty of weight and a stony finish. 2021-29

Wine Advocate (96)

Following the new classification of wines, the 2019 Villa de Corullón is a Vino de Villa (village), produced with grapes from 6.71 hectares divided into 200 small plots they own on slate-rich soils at 500 to 950 meters in altitude. It's 91% Mencía, 1% Alicante Bouschet and 8% white grapes from old vines (50 to 90 years old) that are organically and biodynamically farmed, and the wine will be certified in the coming years. The partly destemmed grapes fermented in oak vats with indigenous yeasts for 43 days and matured in barriques and foudres for 10 months. It has a "moderate" 13.5% alcohol, the lower part of the range, as they aim for 13.5% to 14% alcohol in the finished wines. This is a great blending exercise, as the wines are blended mostly before putting it in barrel. It's a subtle and elegant Corullón, with great balance and freshness; Ricardo talked about some tannins that are very fine. It's a fluid vintage for this bottling, a little herbal, versatile and complex. It seems to have more character than the Moncerbal than it has had in other years. This could be one of the lightest and most elegant vintages of Corullón, with a different texture from the rest of the 2019s. There were 20,344 bottles and some other formats produced.

Jeb Dunnuck (96-98+)

Reminding me of the 2016, the 2019 Domaine De Chevalier checks in as 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot that was brought up in 35% new French oak. Its vivid purple color is followed by a classy bouquet of crème de cassis, damp earth, tobacco leaf, and spring flowers. With medium to full-bodied richness, stunning purity of fruit, silky tannins, and a good spice of acidity, this beautiful, classic, quintessential Chevalier will need 5-7 years of bottle age yet keep for 4-5 decades in cold cellars. Tasted twice.

Decanter (95)

At this family-owned, 26ha estate, seventh generation Alexis Depardon, at just 22, is gradually assuming charge of the domaine’s operations, currently overseeing the 3ha of Côte de Py in Morgon. He has a focus on terroir expression inherited from his parents. This cuvée is sourced from a rocky plot with blue schist soil. Rosemary George MW: Fresh red fruit aromas, and fresh on the palate with fruit and acidity in balance. Good weight and concentration. Andy Howard MW: Rounded and appealing style, lovely weight of dark berry and cherry fruit on the palate. Oak is subtle and well integrated. Freshness on the finish with acidity and a hint of graphite coming through. Fine, elegant Morgon. Dominique Vrigneau: Fresh on nose. Nice vibrant fruit in the mouth. Long clean finish and good balance. Pretty. Drinking Window 2021 - 2028

Wine Enthusiast (97)

Only the most subtle notions of wet oakmoss, citrus peel and yeast escape on the shy nose. This is absolutely honed and taut, but time in the glass allows salty miso and crushed fennel aromas to shine through. A glint of ripe pear joins in but the utter, precise, stony freshness will take a while to unravel. This is indeed a wine to be treasured for decades. Drink 2025–2050.

The Wine Independent (100)

Composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Petit Verdot, the 2019 Dominus was harvested from September 29 to October 10. It was aged in 40% new oak. Deep garnet-purple colored, the nose slowly unfurls to unveil beguiling floral notes of candied violets and rose oil over a core of crème de cassis, blackberry pie, and plum preserves, giving way to notions of licorice, Indian spices, iron ore, and crushed rocks. Full-bodied, the palate is jam-packed with taut, muscular black fruit layers, intertwined with gorgeous floral and exotic spice accents, and framed by firm, finely grained tannins with seamless freshness, finishing long and mineral-laced. Tightly coiled with so much latent energy waiting to explode, this is a spectacular expression of the vintage and Napanook vineyard. Still tightly coiled, give it a good 6-7 years in the cellar before broaching, and allow it a few hours in a decanter if consumed before 2032. 3500 cases were made, to be released in May 2022.

Wine Advocate (94+)

The 2019 Graacher Domprobst Riesling GG is coolish and slatey on the darker-toned, aromatic, slightly flinty and very elegant nose that reveals perfectly ripe apricot and more lush stone fruit aromas with notes of slate oil. Finely classy on the the first attack, this is a filigreed yet substantial, tensioned and enormously long and salty Dompobst with a kiss of sweetness that should be entirely integrated after 5 or so years of bottle aging. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.

James Suckling (99-100)

A very powerful Ducru with intense tannins and backbone, showing blue fruit, black tea and tobacco. Full-bodied with impressive structure and so much tannin. It goes on for minutes. Very traditional. Owner Bruno Borie said it is a wine to last forever and I have to agree. 80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot.

James Suckling (94)

This has an intense nose of blue and dark fruit, dried lavender, clay, oyster shell, dried chili and burnt sage. Lemon zest, too. Medium-bodied with firm, polished tannins. Focused and driven. Try in 2024.

James Suckling (94)

Perfumed nose of brambleberries, wild blackberries, raspberries, violets, cinnamon stick and tea leaves. It’s medium-bodied with very fine, creamy tannins and fresh acidity. Delicious dark-berry fruit with mineral undertones. Try in 2023.

James Suckling (94)

Wild and earthy nose of bark, spiced cherries, ash, porcini and kaffir leaves. Deliciously savory with a medium body. Supple, creamy tannins. Juicy, meaty and delicious. Drink or hold.

Tim Atkin MW (93)

Co-fermented with 10% Malbec for added layers and nuances, this stylish Cabernet Franc has enticing aromas of rose petal and orange peel, fleshy, textured red cherry and bramble fruit, a grassy undertone and serious, well-structured underlying tannins.

James Suckling (96)

Cooked apple, lemon curd and light vanilla on the nose, together with stone, mineral and some dried flowers. Medium to full body with a creamy texture and beautiful fruit. Hints of vanilla and pie crust in the aftertaste. Always great quality for the price. Drink or hold.

James Suckling (97)

A spicy cabernet franc full of red fruit, iodine, wet stones, white pepper and oyster shells. Full-bodied but nicely austere on the palate with chalky tannins and a linear finish. Tannins are super tight yet tense and dissolved. Mineral-driven finish. 50% whole bunch. Drink or hold.

James Suckling (100)

A complex, restrained and deliciously austere cabernet franc with damp earth, oyster shells, blueberries, thyme, rosemary and mushrooms. Super serious and chalky on the palate with lots of dissolved, minerally-textured tannins. Very long and uncompromising! An incredible cabernet franc from Gualtallary by Alejandro Vigil. Extremely pure, mineral and seductive. A fabulous cabernet franc that grows on the palate with remarkable tension and texture. I’d want to drink a bottle now even it can hold extremely well.

James Suckling (100)

A complex, restrained and deliciously austere cabernet franc with damp earth, oyster shells, blueberries, thyme, rosemary and mushrooms. Super serious and chalky on the palate with lots of dissolved, minerally-textured tannins. Very long and uncompromising! An incredible cabernet franc from Gualtallary by Alejandro Vigil. Extremely pure, mineral and seductive. A fabulous cabernet franc that grows on the palate with remarkable tension and texture. I’d want to drink a bottle now even it can hold extremely well.

Wine Advocate (100)

I was really looking forward to tasting the 2013 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary Single Vineyard since all of the previous vintages have been truly exceptional, and I wanted to see what it would be in a cooler year. The bottled wine contains perhaps 15% Malbec in the blend, and they will soon stop mentioning Cabernet Franc on the label. It fermented in 500-liter oak barrels with 50% of the Cabernet Franc and all of the Malbec and then matured in used oak foudres. It's very intense and powerful, but at the same time, there is a kind of lightness on the palate that makes if feel light on its feet but with great inner power. There is citrus acidity that makes it effervescent and electric. It has some 7.5 grams of acidity and a pH of 3.45, very healthy parameters. The peppery character appears after some time, giving it a Chinon-like twist, and it also reminds me of my favorite Bordeaux, Pomerol's Lafleur. This is definitely world-class and worth lying down, as it should develop further complexity in bottle. This is one of those wines where the only improvement I can think of is having magnums rather than bottles. Bravo!

Tim Atkin MW (95)

We want to change perceptions of Torrontés,” says Alejandro Vigil, who sources this chiselled, almost Rheingau Riesling-like white from a seven-year-old pergola at 1,600 metres in Gualtallary. Mineral-edged, taut and refined, with lime and white flower notes, stony intensity and thrilling palate length.

Wine Advocate (95)

The full-bodied, rich 2019 Kupe Pinot Noir is a lovely example of how size doesn't have to mean a loss of elegance. Bold black cherry and plum flavors combine with nuances of cola spice and mocha to yield ample complexity, while the palate is plush and velvety, seamlessly extending through a lingering finish. While delicious now, I expect it will drink well for more than a decade.

Wine Advocate (96)

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Maestro Raro is a lovely expression with deep layers of dark fruit and savory spice that are woven tightly together to form a solid core of primary and secondary flavors. This vintage is especially tight and concentrated, showing terrific balance and freshness and impeccable fruit ripeness that is generous and full. There are no green elements in this vintage. Instead, the fruit is beautifully rich and velvety.

The Wine Independent (100)

Composed of 36% Cabernet Franc, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 30% Merlot, the 2019 Figeac is deep garnet-purple colored. It needs considerable swirling to coax out its alluring perfume of redcurrant jelly, juicy blackcurrants, and blackberries, with underlying suggestions of candied violets, chocolate box, fragrant earth, and lavender plus a touch of crushed rocks. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a mind-blowing array of layers with exceptionally ripe, fine-grained tannins and jaw-dropping tension, leading to a fantastically persistent mineral and floral-tinged finish that makes your heart stop. With its energy, structure, and incredible depth, truly, this is a towering triumph.