The May bank holiday is behind us and many in Britain have had their first taste of Summer travel, whether it was off to Spain, the South of France or any number of classic destinations, it will surely have whetted the appetite for a summer packed with holidays away. As great as it is to spend a sunny day on the beach with a glass of rosé, some people might enjoy a more remote experience. Swapping the sand for green hills and the rose for a peaty dram; those looking for something a bit out of the ordinary should consider a more northerly heading.
Approaching your destination is like a journey to another world.
It’s not mean feat getting here; after the trip to Glasgow, you
take a bus along the remote Kintyre peninsula and then a ferry from
the port of Kennacraig. The entire journey is beautiful once in the
countryside, however the ferry passes some of the legendarily
picturesque islands of the Inner Hebrides. Gigha on the port side
is tiny but full of turbulent clan history, while off starboard you
will see the the dramatic Paps on the Isle of Jura. A noteworthy
island in it’s own right, but as the ferry makes it’s final
approach into Port Askaig you arrive on the Queen of the Hebrides;
Islay>.
Remote as any in these islands is the spiritual home of Single
Malt Scotch Whisky. A small spit of land made up of peat bog and
barley fields; Islay is a place of pilgrimage for lovers of its
unique spirit and legendary reputation. Some will raise an eyebrow
as I suggest a remote Scottish island for a summer getaway, but you
may be surprised to learn that Islay enjoys a surprising amount of
sunshine and fair weather though the summer. Add to that the fact
that the sun never seems to set up here and its a wonderful place
to enjoy long summer days, delicious food and of course, sublime
single malt. The main attractions once you're here are surely the
distilleries. The first stop on your tour will surely be the Port
Askaig-based Caol Ila. Gaelic for the “Sound of Ila†it looks out
across it’s eponymous stretch of water over to Jura. Run by Diageo
it’s a well-crafted spirit known for it’s intensely phenolic and
peaty style with a distinct character of olive and oilskins. North
of Caol Ila is Bunnahabhain (pron. boon-a-have-in), a
lightly-peated malt with more deep richness than it’s
neighbour. Travelling west towards the island’s capital of Bowmore is the
well-known Bowmore Distillery which produces one of the most
balanced and approachable whiskies around. A gateway whisky into
the world of peaty malts, this is always a great visit as well. If you decide to make a jaunt around the northern shore of Loch
Indaal you’ll be going out of the way but you’ll be delving into
the heartland of Islay’s future. The adventurous team at
Bruichladdich (pron. brook-laddie) are known for their
experimental, uncompromising bottlings, including the most heavily
seated spirit in the world; the cultish Octomore. Strangely this
distillery is more known for it’s elegant unseated malt; a more
floral coastal approach to Islay. Since being taken over by
Cointreau they have expanded their efforts to include a revitalised
Port Charlotte distillery. Further to the northwest is the first new distillery to be built
on Islay in over 100 years. Kilchoman, on the shores of Machir Bay
is an exciting place to visit. A classic farm distillery, they grow
their barley, malt their barley, distill, mature and bottle all on
site. Founded only in 2005, the spirit is young but incredibly
fresh, vibrant and dynamic. Reminiscent of burned orange peal it is
a truly unique malt. Heading south from Bowmore to the southern shore is where the
most iconic distilleries lie. Those that put Islay on the map and
made it’s peat-laced style so recogniseable, line the coast to the
east of the village of Port Ellen. Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg
all have their passionate devotees, while a closed distillery draws
arguably the most feverish adoration. Now a malting, The Port Ellen
distillery closed in the 80s and the remaining barrels and
bottlings are among the most collectible in the world of wine and
spirits. Basing oneself in Port Ellen, this line-up of distilleries is an
ideal visit to the island in itself. Crawling from one to another,
it is very feasible to even spring for a hired driver so no one in
your party needs to abstain. Also, one can travel the other regions
of Scotland’s whisky simply by visiting the whisky bar of the Islay
Hotel, not to mention sampling the exceptional local seafood at the
hotel’s restaurant. Be sure at least once on your trip to try a bit
of the local oysters with a splash of Ardbeg 10. Sadly the trip must come to an end and Port Ellen is a
convenient location to take the ferry back to the mainland. Regular
CalMac services run to Kennacraig and as you leave the fairytale
island that is Islay, you’ll get a last look at the three southern
distilleries as you make your way back to reality._
"A small spit of land made up of peat bog and barley fields;
Islay is a place of pilgrimage for lovers of its unique spirit and
legendary reputation."
_
