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Brunello di Montalcino

Wine from Montalcino was only appreciated and understood by locals as recently as the 70's, even though its warm dry climate has much in common with its famous Tuscan cousin, Chianti. However pioneering work from Clemente Santi with various clones of Sangiovese led to what was labelled Brunello di Montalcino. Changes in strict laws have allowed this region to react better to modern trends, reducing mandatory oak ageing from 4 to 2 years. As with Chianti small amount of foreign grapes can now be including within blends.

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Brunello di Montalcino

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Tuscany 6 97 (VN) HK$10,805.00
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Vinous (97)

(5.9 g/l total acidity, 3.29 pH, 27.3 g/l dry extract, 13.9% alcohol): Bright, deep red. Explosively perfumed aromas of redcurrant, red cherry, yellow plum, violet, minerals and licorice on the captivating nose. Powerful, superconcentrated and seamless, with superb inner-mouth perfume and energy to the underbrush, sweet spice and white stone fruit flavors. Very full and sophisticated on the long finish, which boasts a seamless texture and uncommon flavor complexity. This is still amazingly young and built for the long haul. A absolutely superb wine from one of the greatest Brunello vintages of all time. This also spent 48 months in large oak cask.
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Tuscany 6 95 (VN) HK$8,950.00
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Vinous (95)

Pulling yourself away from a glass of 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Al Vento Riserva is an exercise in futility. It wafts up with a heady bouquet of dried cherries and clove complemented by brown spices, worn leather, tobacco and the slightest hint of mocha. There are silken depths here, ushering in intense, tart red currants, motivated by stimulating acidity, as saline-minerals and a burst of sour citrus provides lovely contrasts. It leaves a potent and persistent staining of primary fruit and sweet tannins, all under rosy inner florals and earth tones. Judged by the bright ruby color alone, you’d never guess this was a twenty-year-old wine, yet what you find within tempts the imagination even more. The 2001 Riserva has many years of evolution in store.
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Tuscany 6 95+ (VN) HK$4,730.00
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Vinous (95+)

Col d'Orcia's 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is beautifully perfumed, finessed and nuanced, with plenty of bright red-fleshed fruit flavors. Hints of cedar, smoke, licorice and tobacco develop in the glass, but the 2004 remains quite primary and dense, with little in the way of development relative to so many other wines of the vintage. The 2004 can be enjoyed today with some aeration, but its best drinking almost certainly lies in the future. Richer, dark red cherry compote and plum notes start to open up in the glass, hinting at what is to come.
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Tuscany 6 96 (VN) HK$3,895.00
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Vinous (96)

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva starts to show tertiary nuances as dusty soil tones, dried roses and cedar complicate crushed wildberries and a lifting hint of rosemary evolves in the glass. It offers total pleasure on the palate, silken and round with fresh acidity for balance and a pure display of strawberry and cherry. The finish shows excellent length and framing tannins, perfectly balanced as a balsamic twang and the slightest tinge of soy fade. The 2006 is ready to go, yet balanced for many more years of cellaring.
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Tuscany 6 96 (VN) HK$8,115.00
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Vinous (96)

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva starts to show tertiary nuances as dusty soil tones, dried roses and cedar complicate crushed wildberries and a lifting hint of rosemary evolves in the glass. It offers total pleasure on the palate, silken and round with fresh acidity for balance and a pure display of strawberry and cherry. The finish shows excellent length and framing tannins, perfectly balanced as a balsamic twang and the slightest tinge of soy fade. The 2006 is ready to go, yet balanced for many more years of cellaring.
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Tuscany 6 95+ (VN) HK$3,895.00
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Vinous (95+)

The estate's 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is striking. Freshly cut roses, sweet spices and red cherries wrap around the palate in a sensual wine endowed with superb depth and pedigree. This is one of the more feminine, gracious wines of the year. It will be interesting to see where the 2007 Poggio al Vento goes over the coming decades. Today, it is all about texture. The combination of dazzling fruit supported by plenty of structure makes me think this is one of the few 2007 Riservas that is built for the long haul.
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Tuscany 6 95+ (VN) HK$7,305.00
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Vinous (95+)

The estate's 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is striking. Freshly cut roses, sweet spices and red cherries wrap around the palate in a sensual wine endowed with superb depth and pedigree. This is one of the more feminine, gracious wines of the year. It will be interesting to see where the 2007 Poggio al Vento goes over the coming decades. Today, it is all about texture. The combination of dazzling fruit supported by plenty of structure makes me think this is one of the few 2007 Riservas that is built for the long haul.
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Tuscany 6 97 (WA) HK$6,975.00
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Wine Advocate (97)

Released seven years after the harvest, the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is a stunning wine. It soars to the highest altitudes in terms of elegance and power. These opposite forces—muscle versus grace—are what distinguish this classic vintage. Col d'Orcia has effortlessly captured and immortalized both sides of the continuum. The bouquet produces a long succession of aromas including dried cherry fruit, licorice, cola, lavender flower, cured meat and black truffle. The velvety finish is supple and long in persistence. This is a gorgeous creation.
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Tuscany 6 94+ (VN) HK$3,050.00
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Vinous (94+)

Moderately saturated bright red-ruby. Raspberry, rose oil, sour red cherry, and Asian spices on the nose, with a note of cola gaining strength with air. Refined and concentrated at the same time, with sweet red berry, herbal and mineral flavors becoming fuller with air. Finishes with impressive energy and lingering red fruit and floral qualities that are nicely buffered by fine-grained tannins. Much less powerful but then again also more graceful than the 2010 Poggio al Vento. I also noticed this picks up considerable volume with air, so my suggestion is to decant an hour or two ahead, should you decide to pop a cork early. Lay this away.
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Tuscany 6 96 (VN) HK$2,850.00
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Vinous (96)

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is coy at first, brooding, with dark dusty florals, exotic spices and a hint of brown sugar; yet time in the glass allows it to blossom and show its inner beauty, as wave after wave of crushed strawberry, cherry and sweet violets lifts from the glass. On the palate, soft textures envelop the senses in sweet and savory red berry fruits, so silky and refined, as it seems to hover weightlessly, while saline minerals and youthful tannins begin to saturate all that they touch. The finish is long and structured, closing in upon itself, tugging at the cheek and reminding me that this wine is just a baby today. Simply stunning, yet in need of five to ten years of cellaring to show its best. Wow.
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Tuscany 3 96 (VN) HK$5,500.00
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Vinous (96)

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Poggio al Vento is coy at first, brooding, with dark dusty florals, exotic spices and a hint of brown sugar; yet time in the glass allows it to blossom and show its inner beauty, as wave after wave of crushed strawberry, cherry and sweet violets lifts from the glass. On the palate, soft textures envelop the senses in sweet and savory red berry fruits, so silky and refined, as it seems to hover weightlessly, while saline minerals and youthful tannins begin to saturate all that they touch. The finish is long and structured, closing in upon itself, tugging at the cheek and reminding me that this wine is just a baby today. Simply stunning, yet in need of five to ten years of cellaring to show its best. Wow.
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Tuscany 6 95 (VN) HK$2,585.00
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Vinous (95)

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva wafts up with gorgeous dusty rose, violet tones, worn leather and dried black cherries. It balances the sun-kissed nature of the vintage with zesty acidity and a fine tannic grip, as ripe red berry fruits saturate the palate. The finish is incredibly long and potent yet harmonious, with an inflection of sage and cedary spice. The 2015 is already showing beautifully in line with the vintage, with potential for another decade or more.
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Tuscany 1 95 (VN) HK$5,500.00
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Vinous (95)

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva wafts up with gorgeous dusty rose, violet tones, worn leather and dried black cherries. It balances the sun-kissed nature of the vintage with zesty acidity and a fine tannic grip, as ripe red berry fruits saturate the palate. The finish is incredibly long and potent yet harmonious, with an inflection of sage and cedary spice. The 2015 is already showing beautifully in line with the vintage, with potential for another decade or more.
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Tuscany 20 98 (JS) HK$2,145.00
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James Suckling (98)

Super classic Brunello from a classic vintage, being released now. The perfume to this is really something, with cherries, flowers, lead pencil and light hints of graphite. Then it moves to raspberries and black cherries with some sandalwood shavings. You just want to smell it. Clear and transparent. Full-bodied with very fine and succinct tannins that fill the mouth and show super tension and form. Extremely long and structured. Beautiful now, but this will age for decades ahead. Drink or hold.
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Tuscany 40 98 (JS) HK$4,930.00
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James Suckling (98)

Super classic Brunello from a classic vintage, being released now. The perfume to this is really something, with cherries, flowers, lead pencil and light hints of graphite. Then it moves to raspberries and black cherries with some sandalwood shavings. You just want to smell it. Clear and transparent. Full-bodied with very fine and succinct tannins that fill the mouth and show super tension and form. Extremely long and structured. Beautiful now, but this will age for decades ahead. Drink or hold.
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Tuscany 1 94 (VN) HK$11,565.00
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Vinous (94)

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a remarkably pretty bouquet of rosy florals, ripe strawberry, and subtle spice, as the 2015 Col di Lamo evolves into a more savory display, with hints of rosemary and black olive. On the palate, silky textures give way to a savory blend of crushed cherry and raspberry, with hints of spicy citrus, rosy florals, and mineral tones developing over a coating of fine tannins. The finish is long, resonating on floral-laced red fruits and savory spice with a tug of youthful tannin on the cheek. This is a wonderfully pure, balanced, and enjoyable expression of the vintage.
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Tuscany 1 90 (VN) HK$11,565.00
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Vinous (90)

The 2016 Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino makes itself known with an extroverted yet highly seductive display, mixing medicinal cherry, pine shavings, sage, mocha, cinnamon and cloves. It’s soft in feel with a pure showing of red berries and minerals, as grippy tannins mount toward the close. This finishes structured and dry with just a hint of licorice and red currant.
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Tuscany 1 97 (WE) HK$3,695.00
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Wine Enthusiast (97)

Delicately scented, this offers underbrush, pressed violet and wild berry aromas. It's medium-bodied and loaded with elegance, delivering crushed raspberry, Morello cherry, licorice and a hint of pipe tobacco set against taut, refined tannins. Bright acidity provides balance. It's a bit austere at this stage but will develop beautifully.
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Tuscany 1 98 (WE) HK$3,380.00
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Wine Enthusiast (98)

Fragrant and all about finesse, this gorgeous wine opens with enticing aromas of blue flower, forest floor, wild berry and a whiff of eucalyptus. It's linear and elegant, delivering succulent red cherry, pomegranate, star anise and tobacco alongside polished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it impeccably balanced.
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Tuscany 5 99 (WE) HK$3,400.00
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Wine Enthusiast (99)

This savory stunner has enticing scents of violet, rose and wild berry that gain complexity alongside notes of leather, camphor and sandalwood. The elegantly structured palate is all about precision, featuring juicy cherry, blood orange, star anise and tobacco framed in taut, refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it energized.
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Tuscany 1 97 (WE) HK$3,590.00
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Wine Enthusiast (97)

Extremely elegant and focused, this compelling wine defies the heat of the vintage, starting with a heady fragrance of ripe dark-skinned berries, violet, camphor, dark spice and whiffs of crushed herbs. On the linear, elegantly structured palate, tightly woven but extremely polished tannins accompany juicy Marasca cherry, blood orange, licorice and white pepper while fresh acidity keeps it balanced and fresh. Drink 2025–2032
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Tuscany 20 99 (KO) HK$2,705.00
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Kerin O'Keefe (99)

Perfumed berry, pine forest, new leather and violet aromas mingle with enticing scents of vineyard dust that segue into underbrush and nutmeg. Linear, lithe and all about elegance, the savory palate has great energy that lifts juicy red cherry, spiced cranberry, star anise and tangy saline notes that linger on the close. Tight but refined tannins and vibrant acidity keep it youthfully tense and impeccably balanced. Those who love power and might could be surprised by its almost ethereal quality, but lovers of finesse, depth and balance will swoon in delight.
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Tuscany 4 100 (DC) HK$3,940.00
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Decanter (100)

I remember tasting Costanti’s 2019 Rosso di Montalcino in 2021 and thinking how Brunello-esque it was: the sturdy structure was almost uncharacteristic, yet it certainly boded well for the Brunello. Simply gloriously sculpted, the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino is indeed statuesque and stately. While it doesn’t give everything up all at once, it is gracious in its presentation. From chestnut forest and sweet earth, to anise and orange extract, the aromas are visceral, and boundless depths of wild red berries suffuse the palate. It vibrates with scintillating acidity and long, tactile tannins which stretch out leisurely. I bet that Rosso has hit its stride now – if you have some, it’s what you'll want to drink while waiting for this captivatingly beautiful Brunello. I can't help but imagine what next year’s Riserva release has in store.
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Wine from Montalcino was only appreciated and understood by locals as recently as the 70's, even though its warm dry climate has much in common with its famous Tuscan cousin, Chianti. However pioneering work from Clemente Santi with various clones of Sangiovese led to what was labelled Brunello di Montalcino. Changes in strict laws have allowed this region to react better to modern trends, reducing mandatory oak ageing from 4 to 2 years. As with Chianti small amount of foreign grapes can now be included within blends.
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