France - All White Wines
France is revered for its exceptional white wines, which showcase the country's rich winemaking heritage, diverse terroirs, and unwavering commitment to quality. Today, let us embark on a journey through the best white wines that France has to offer, exploring renowned vineyards and the regions that give birth to these extraordinary expressions.
In Burgundy, the appellations of Chablis, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet stand tall as the epitome of excellence in white wine production. Wineries such as Domaine Raveneau, Domaine Dauvissat, and Domaine Leflaive craft mesmerizing Chardonnays that capture the essence of the region's unique Kimmeridgian limestone soils. These wines exhibit precision, purity, and a remarkable balance of mineral notes, citrus flavors, and vibrant acidity.
Moving to the Loire Valley, the vineyards of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are celebrated for their exceptional Sauvignon Blancs. Domaine Vacheron, Domaine Didier Dagueneau, and Domaine Pascal Jolivet create expressive and terroir-driven wines that showcase the region's distinct flinty minerality, zesty citrus, and herbaceous undertones.
Further northeast in France, in the region of Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Domaine Trimbach, and Domaine Weinbach produce stunning white wines from varietals like Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris. These wines display remarkable depth, aromatic complexity, and a balance between sweetness and acidity, reflecting the region's unique microclimates and granite-rich soils.
In Bordeaux, the region of Graves is renowned for its white wines, particularly those crafted from the classic grape varieties of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Château Haut-Brion, Château Pape Clément, and Domaine de Chevalier are esteemed vineyards that produce rich and age-worthy white Bordeaux wines. These wines exhibit a beautiful interplay of tropical fruit flavors, vibrant acidity, and a touch of toasty oak.
Finally, in the Rhône Valley, the appellation of Condrieu shines as a beacon of excellence in Viognier production. Renowned vineyards such as Domaine Georges Vernay and Domaine Yves Cuilleron create remarkable Viognier wines that seduce the senses with their exotic aromas of apricot, peach, and delicate floral notes. These wines showcase richness, elegance, and a silky texture that lingers on the palate.
France - All White Wines
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Vinous - Antonio Galloni (94)
The NV (2017) Brut Nature Amplitude is 100% Chardonnay from old vines in Vrigny and Janvry. It is also one of the most impressive wines I have tasted from Lamblot. There's terrific energy and plenty of cut, not to mention tons of character. Readers should find a powerful, broad Champagne built on textural richness and saline-infused vibrancy. The 2017 finishes with real palate-staining intensity. The style is a bit rustic and assertive, but it all works. Disgorged: February 7, 2022.HK$5,600.00 -
Jancis Robinson (17)
Cask sample. Top-quality premier cru Puligny. Concentration and power on the nose/palate. Savoury edge, plenty of citrus keeping the palate fresh. Should age very well. Stony finish with an intriguing zesty character. GV.HK$10,060.00 -
Vinous (95)
Translucent yellow. Seductively perfumed aromas of passion fruit, pear nectar, white peach and orange zest, along with suggestions of jasmine and tarragon. At once concentrated and lively, offering vibrant, mineral-laced orchard and pit fruit flavors that are complicated by a suave, steadily building floral nuance. Finishes with a strong jolt of minerality, repeating florality and noteworthy persistence. This wine's blend of power and finesse is quite something.HK$5,400.00 -
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (90-93)
Pale clear colour. A gentle fresh apple nose, this has notable tension on the palate, not a rich, ripe rounded Meursault – but that is not the intention anyway. The attack suggests that this is only just ripe, but the finish indicates that it was picked at a very good moment, otherwise you wouldn’t have this length of flavour. Fine tension to finish.HK$30,280.00 -
Hailing from the acclaimed vineyards of Burgundy, France, Boisson Vadot Meursault les Grands Charrons 2018 offers an unrivalled luxurious taste journey. Utilising the skillful hand of Boisson Vadot, a viticulturist with generations of winemaking heritage, this exceptional creation embodies excellence.
A product of Chardonnay grapes, this captivating white wine delivers a fervent embodiment of the unique terroir it originates from. A judicious use of oak barrel fermentation and ageing intensify its distinctive undertones of apple, pear, and toasted nuts, further pronounced by an elegant mineral touch. Its medium to full-bodied robustness, compelling complexity, and bright acidity whisper of its potential to age beautifully.
Boisson Vadot Meursault les Grands Charrons 2018 encapsulates the opulence of its provenance, satisfying the most discerning of palates. A testament to the artistry and rigorous dedication of its creators towards delivering absolute perfection.
HK$19,230.00 -
The Roca Gianaca 2020 we have on offer today is a white of serious Burgundian pedigree. The vineyard has been consulted, trained, and analysed by Bruno Clavelier, a famous vigneron from Vosne Romanée; and the barrels used for ageing have been sourced directly from Domaine Ramonet. Indeed a seriously treated wine from vineyard to bottling, the Roca Gianaca is made from 100% Vermentino.HK$1,320.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
As in 2016, my favorite of the white parcel selections this year is the 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc (231 cases produced), as it perfectly balances richness and power with refinement and structure. Toasted brioche and citrus marmalade, honey and truffle notes deliver sheer full-bodied, mouth-filling decadence, supported by austere notes of crushed granite, zesty grapefruit rind and cooling brine. Huge and intense yet refreshing, it's the essence of granite-grown Marsanne.HK$25,390.00 -
Wine Advocate (100)
Easily the finest vintage of this cuvee to date, the 2013 Ermitage le Meal Blanc doesn’t give an inch to the more heralded Cuvee de L’Orée or l’Ermite. Pure perfection in a glass, with awesome caramelized citrus, pineapple, crushed rock, toasted bread and buttered peach, it’s full-bodied, massive and concentrated on the palate, with incredible purity, richness and length. As with the other top whites here, it needs a year or two in the cellar and will have 2-3 decades of longevity.HK$3,442.00 -
Wine Advocate (95-97)
The 2017 Coutet has lovely notions of spice cake, fresh ginger and honeysuckle over a core of lemon curd, beeswax and preserved peaches. Rich, spicy and quite decadent in the mouth, it has wonderful freshness and depth, finishing very long.HK$2,400.00 -
Decanter (97)
A particularly floral expression, with lavender and violets on the nose among the apricot fruit. Full-bodied, but still fluid on the palate, this has a real intensity and freshness, a sense of tension and minerality. Long finish that's not overburdened by oak. This has a sense of straightness and direction despite the breadth on the palate and open aromatic display. Very well balanced, finishing floral. Selection of parcels grown on biotite granite, vinified then aged nine months in barriques and foudres. Drinking Window 2021 - 2030HK$3,999.00 -
HK$15,775.00 -
Wine Advocate (98)
The 2018 d'Yquem is all lime cordial, grapefruit oil and mandarin peel to begin. With a little coaxing, the fireworks really begin, letting off a whole array of honeysuckle, candied ginger, dried pineapple, lemon pastilles, chalk dust and sea spray scents, followed by a savory undercurrent of shaved almonds, allspice and baking bread. The palate is an exercise in polish and poise, featuring the most gorgeously creamy texture and bright, sparkling freshness, framing all the densely laden tropical and citrus fruit layers, finishing with a powerful BANG of profound floral and spice perfume. It is wonderfully sweet, yes, but that—paradoxically for a "sweet wine"—is almost beside the point.HK$13,000.00 -
The Wine Independent (97+)
The 2020 Château d'Yquem a blend of 75% Sémillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc. It has 135 grams per liter of residual sugar and a pH of 3.79. Pale lemon-gold colored, citrus and baking spice notes emerge slowly from the glass, rising to offer well-defined scents of candied ginger, orange blossoms, allspice, and almond tart, leading to a flamboyant core of peach cobbler, ripe, juicy pineapple, jasmine tea, and apple butter with a waft of saffron. The palate is full-bodied and characteristically rich, yet possesses impressive tension and therefore stunning harmony. Layers of exotic spices and fragrant white flower accents fill the palate, leading to a long finish with lingering chalk and mineral nuances. It’s a showy Yquem that is gregarious in youth but is reserving that extra something for those with the patience to wait twenty years or more.HK$7,000.00 -
Burghound (93)
Outstanding. Pungent aromas of wood and reduction clearly need aeration so be sure to do that if you choose to crack a bottle young. By contrast there is fine density and verve to the utterly delicious middleweight flavors that possess a more refined and more mineral-driven texture before culminating in a clean, very dry and sneaky long finish. Assuming this cleans up appropriately it should ultimately offer very fine quality over a mid-term aging curve.HK$3,500.00 -
Wine Advocate (92)
Bottled in February 2021 (no, that isn't a typo), Defaix's 2009 Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet wafts from the glass with aromas of honeycomb, golden orchard fruit, apricot, spices and dried white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, broad and satiny, it's a lively, saline wine that concludes with a delicately nutty finish.HK$4,750.00 -
Vinous (91-93)
The 2020 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has a well-defined nose with perhaps more mineralité than others. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth entry, light tropical notes with hints of peach and apricot, quite sensual towards the finish that lingers in the mouth. Delicious, but maybe it just needs a little more tension. Closure: DiamHK$8,047.00 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (96)
The first bottle of 2016 Doisy-Daëne was corked. The second is clean and precise on the nose, offering honeycomb, lanolin, crushed rocks and light yellow flower aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced, and a fine bead of acidity cuts through the intense botrytized fruit. Very harmonious and poised, with impressive intensity on the finish. This is a marvelous Sauternes. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.HK$1,800.00 -
James Suckling (98)
Stare into the abyss and it will stare back at you! This has such an incredible depth of dried-flower and fresh-herb notes that you could get lost in the bouquet, before reaching the sleek and enormously mineral palate. So pristine and dazzling at the super long finish. Drink or hold.HK$1,980.00 -
Vinous (92)
The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru is taut and fresh, showing more vigour and mineralité compared to its showing in bottle last year. The palate is well balanced with good depth, a little creaminess coming through towards the finish with touches of orange zest and dried apricot developing. This has caught up with the Folatières since it lagged behind when tasted from vat. Tasted at Flint Wines Domaine Dujac tasting in London.HK$15,800.00 -
Vinous (89-91)
The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from the 12 parcels located around the appellation. It offers attractive dewy green apples, freshly sliced pear and hints of mirabelle on the nose, which needs a few swirls of the glass to awaken. The palate is well balanced with orange zest and citrus lemon and hints of lime, all matched with a fine bead of acidity, the 15% new oak neatly folded into the finish. Recommended.HK$5,600.00 -
Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux (94)
Touch of reduction, with flint and gunsmoke adding focus and interest. Stands out for its grip and tension and a feeling of depth to the stone and citrus fruit. Touches of green apple and gooseberry also.HK$1,000.00 -
Vinous - Neal Martin (91)
The 2019 Grand Village Blanc, 25% Sémillon and 75% Sauvignon Blanc (Bordeaux clones and massal selection) has a perfumed bouquet of yellow plum, nectarine and honeysuckle. The palate is well balanced with a waxy texture, dried apricot and pear, lovely weight and salinity surfacing on the finish. It is one of the finest Grand Village Blanc that I have tasted.HK$1,250.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (99)
Just about pure perfection and one of the finest Condrieu to pass my lips, the 2020 Condrieu La Doriane offers an insane bouquet of grilled pineapple, charcoal, crushed stone, acacia flowers, and white peach. It picks up an incredibly sense of salinity on the palate and is full-bodied, has blockbuster concentration, remarkable purity and focus, and a great finish. I like this beast/beauty today, but it will keep for a decade.HK$5,000.00 -
Jeb Dunnuck (99)
Just about perfection in a glass, the 2017 Hermitage Ex Voto Blanc is a tour de force, offering a heavenly bouquet of white currants, quince, toasted bread, spice box, and assorted flower oil-like nuances. Deep, full-bodied, and massively concentrated on the palate, it has a distinct salty minerality, a stacked mid-palate, and bright acidity, all making for a Hermitage Blanc that needs 4-5 years of bottle age, yet will keep for two decades or more.HK$8,000.00 -
Decanter (96)
Fully expressive on the nose, burnt lemon, candied peel and dried fruits - apricots, oranges and spices - lots going on. Lovely combination here of bright, quite acidic lemony freshness with this honey, caramel buttery softness and also so many notes of dried fruit, raisins, apricots, pineapple and also pot pourri. Great potential here, lots of complexity and I really love the interplay between bright lemon acid and sweet toffee richness. Confident and showy in the best way.HK$2,010.00 -
Burghound (93)
(Outstanding) Here there is enough post-bottling reduction to largely mask the nuances of the more floral-suffused aromas. As is typically the case, there is more refinement but less size, weight and power to the delicious and gorgeously textured medium-bodied flavors that display excellent length on the citrus-tinged finale. This youthfully austere effort will require at least a few years of patience, but it should be well worth the wait.HK$11,015.00 -
Burghound (95)
Smoky broad-ranging aromas are composed primarily of various white orchard fruit, acacia blossom, citrus rind, wood and a hint of exotic tea. There is an abundance of dry extract that imparts a sappy character to the concentrated, mineral-driven and wonderfully complex flavors that also display a hint of mandarin orange on the strikingly long finish that is Zen-like in its harmony. In a word, fantastic.HK$9,500.00 -
Wine Spectator (95)
From green clay and pebbly silex soils, the 2018 Vouvray Le Mont Demi-Sec offers a clear, intense but elegant and sublime nose that intermixes ripe fruit and ginger aromas with spicy-flinty notes. Very well articulated and precise on the nose, it is lush and intense on the palate, with a good structure and complex finish. This is a highly promising Vouvray whose combination of 14% alcohol and unfermented sugar asks for a couple of years of cellar aging. The finish is salty, pure, tight and vibrantly fresh. A gorgeous, highly energetic wine. Tasted in May 2019.HK$1,880.00 -
Decanter (97)
The crown in the Hugel jewels, Schoelhammer comes from 30 rows in the core of Grand Cru Shoenenbourg, high above Riquewihr. An intense, dry and mineral-charged Riesling with floral aromas and concentrated lime/lemon zest flavours. Fermented in neutral oak, this retains absolute purity and clarity of flavour. Bottled in Spring 2012, this vintage was first released in 2018. Still very youthful and with decades ahead.HK$5,740.00 -
Vinous (94-96)
(these were the last chardonnay vines harvested in 2010): Very pale yellow with a green tinge. Brilliantly pure, high-pitched aromas of chalk, lime blossom, peppermint, spearmint, white pepper, anise and wild herbs. Delicate on entry, then saline, dry and rich in the middle, with outstanding cut and precision to its flavors of crushed rock, spices and truffle lifted by mint oils. Classic east-facing Corton-Charlemagne from marne blanche soil in Ladoix. For all its energy, this wine already boasts a remarkably silky texture. The palate-staining finish leaves the salivary glands humming.HK$13,800.00
