France - All White Wines
France is revered for its exceptional white wines, which showcase the country's rich winemaking heritage, diverse terroirs, and unwavering commitment to quality. Today, let us embark on a journey through the best white wines that France has to offer, exploring renowned vineyards and the regions that give birth to these extraordinary expressions.
In Burgundy, the appellations of Chablis, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet stand tall as the epitome of excellence in white wine production. Wineries such as Domaine Raveneau, Domaine Dauvissat, and Domaine Leflaive craft mesmerizing Chardonnays that capture the essence of the region's unique Kimmeridgian limestone soils. These wines exhibit precision, purity, and a remarkable balance of mineral notes, citrus flavors, and vibrant acidity.
Moving to the Loire Valley, the vineyards of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are celebrated for their exceptional Sauvignon Blancs. Domaine Vacheron, Domaine Didier Dagueneau, and Domaine Pascal Jolivet create expressive and terroir-driven wines that showcase the region's distinct flinty minerality, zesty citrus, and herbaceous undertones.
Further northeast in France, in the region of Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Domaine Trimbach, and Domaine Weinbach produce stunning white wines from varietals like Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris. These wines display remarkable depth, aromatic complexity, and a balance between sweetness and acidity, reflecting the region's unique microclimates and granite-rich soils.
In Bordeaux, the region of Graves is renowned for its white wines, particularly those crafted from the classic grape varieties of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Château Haut-Brion, Château Pape Clément, and Domaine de Chevalier are esteemed vineyards that produce rich and age-worthy white Bordeaux wines. These wines exhibit a beautiful interplay of tropical fruit flavors, vibrant acidity, and a touch of toasty oak.
Finally, in the Rhône Valley, the appellation of Condrieu shines as a beacon of excellence in Viognier production. Renowned vineyards such as Domaine Georges Vernay and Domaine Yves Cuilleron create remarkable Viognier wines that seduce the senses with their exotic aromas of apricot, peach, and delicate floral notes. These wines showcase richness, elegance, and a silky texture that lingers on the palate.
France - All White Wines
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Rhone | 1 | 99 (JD) | HK$14,340.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (99)Another heavenly white from this estate is the 2020 Hermitage Blanc, which is the usual 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne from a mix lieux-dits. Incredibly perfumed with notes of acacia flowers, buttered stone fruits, toasted brioche, honeysuckle, and crushed stone, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a seamless, layered texture, beautiful mid-palate depth, and a great finish. The purity, balance, and intensity here are just about off the charts, and this beauty deserves a solid decade of bottle age, although you'll be excused if you drink one in its youth as well. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN) | HK$8,888.00 | |||||
Vinous (91)The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet 1er Cru offers fine intensity on the nose of orchard fruit, touches of orange blossom and crushed stone scents, all quite intense while maintaining delineation. The palate is well defined with a fine line of acidity, and maybe just a little oaky at the moment, although that should be absorbed with time. It just feels conservative on the finish. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$5,390.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet 1er Cru has a very attractive nose with enticing scents of nectarine, tinned white peaches, Braeburn apples and a light chalky note. The palate is well balanced with orange pith, apricot and lychee notes on the entry. This Champ Canet has fine depth and good tension, the mouth tingling with spicy residues after it has departed. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-96 (IB) | HK$18,125.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-96)The plot is top of the top in positioning .Clear mid yellow colour with a clear-cut bouquet, less opulent than the others, thus works really well for me. Fresher throughout while still clearly ripe, excellent mineral acidity, waves of flavour, harmonious and consistent. Bravo. Little lemon notes throughout keep it fresh. Long classy finish. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 93+ (WA) | HK$7,151.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93+)Tasted from bottle, Drouhin's 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc is showing very well, offering up aromas of fresh pear, Meyer lemon and grapefruit zest that are still quite youthfully marked by a generous application of buttery new oak that experience shows will integrate nicely with a little age. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and textural, with racy underlying acids, a fragrant core of fruit and a long, penetrating finish. This is a very elegant, aromatic rendition of this emblematic Drouhin cuvée. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 94-97 (IB) | HK$6,363.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (94-97)Pale lemon colour. The power is immediately apparent on the nose, but in a good way. A wine for longer elevage before bottling and then worth the wait in bottle thereafter. This has all the expected volume of white fruit while retaining impeccable balance. Adds depth with time in the glass, before reaching quite a saline finish. A very youthful but impressive Clos des Mouches. I recently enjoyed a stunning bottle of the 2017, and this could very well match it in due course. Tasted: November 2021 |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$9,800.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 2017 Meursault Charmes 1er Cru had been bottled in August 2018. It has a well-defined bouquet, hints of white chocolate infusing the citrus fruit, and just a touch of honey giving away the warmth of the growing season. The palate is well-balanced with a discreet spicy opening that dovetails into a pure, quite tensile midpalate. There is a sense of fullness to this Meursault, which displays impressive amplitude toward the persistent finish. This comes highly recommended. |
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Burgundy | 2 | - | HK$7,880.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$3,600.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)The 2019 Châteauneuf Du Pape Prestige Blanc is pure gold and a magical, perfect wine from this incredible family estate. Based largely on Roussanne with smaller amounts of Grenache Blanc and Clairette, it was brought up in used demi-muids. Honeyed pineapple, caramelized white peach, mango, honeysuckle, and exotic rose petal notes all emerge from this full-bodied white, which has bright acidity, incredible depth of fruit, and flawless balance. This extraordinary white needs plenty of air to show at its best (you could even open it the day before and keep it in the refrigerator overnight), and I suspect it will have two decades or more of overall longevity. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98.0 | HK$27,800.00 | |||||
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Bordeaux | 1 | 93 (WA) | HK$5,400.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)The 1998 la Tour Blanche is medium gold in color with quite an earthy, savory nose giving up perfumed notions of orange blossoms and honeysuckle over preserved apricots, apple pie and allspice hints. It's wonderfully elegant, sophisticated and beautifully balanced in the mouth, with oodles of layers and epic length. |
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Burgundy | 2 | - | HK$12,200.00 | |||||
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Bordeaux | 1 | 93-94 (JS) | HK$1,780.00 | |||||
James Suckling (93-94)The change here is impressive with bright and vivid aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, stones, and minerals. Underlying energy and intensity in this white. Full and flavorful. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$7,000.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 6 | - | HK$3,880.00 | |||||
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Mâcon-Verzé is a blend of multiple plots in the Mâconnais either entirely owned by the family of managed by impeccably trusted select growers. Subjected to the same incredibly strict selection criteria and then vinified with the same care as the (singular) Domaine Leflaive’s Grands and 1er Crus, Mâcon-Verzé is aged for 12 months in 25% new wood before it is transferred to stainless steel vats to clarify naturally.
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Burgundy | 1 | 94 (VN) | HK$24,900.00 | |||||
Vinous (94)The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a little more amplitude compared to the Clavaillon, scents of Granny Smith apples and dewy meadow on a cold morning. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little more weight and girth than the Clavaillon, not to mention a touch more salinity and race on the persistent finish. Excellent. Closure: Diam 30 |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$20,000.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$30,000.00 | |||||
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Fulfilling even the refined palate of the most insatiable vinophile, the Les Horees Bourgogne Aligote En Couzelain 2020 is a superbly crafted, spirited, and eloquent expression of the hallowed terroirs of Bourgogne (Burgundy). It is cultivated by Les Horees, a remarkable vineyard revered for its commitment to organic and biodynamic practices, and respect for the environment. The wine is harvested from the tiny En Couzelain vineyard plot, a place of pure calcareous soil blessings that give this Aligote its indomitable character. Aged 'sur lie' to augment richness, this hand-harvested varietal undergoes stringent sorting to ensure optimal purity and natural fermentation. The Les Horees Bourgogne Aligote En Couzelain 2020 reveals a generous bouquet of citrus and white flowers, leading to a concentrated palate that resonates with delightful freshness, minerality, and an admirable, lingering finish. This is a limited-production wine, making each sip an indulgence in exclusivity and grace. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (VN) | HK$4,300.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Virondot 1er Cru, which unlike the other Premier Crus was taken from barrel, has a lovely bouquet with hazelnut, orange rind, wet granite and just a touch of praline. The palate is very well balanced with an irresistible peachy entry that segues into a gorgeous quince-tinged finish. Often one of the Domaine best offerings, this Virondot is another to add in a succession of great wines from this climat. |
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Alsace | 1 | 96 (WE) | HK$3,100.00 | |||||
Wine Enthusiast (96)Exquisitely pure and aromatic notes of baked pear gleam in the glass along with something heady and ethereal that is reminiscent of freshly cut citrus zest. The off-dry palate has a balm-like viscosity and brings out honeyed ripe Mirabelles, but it all happens at such a gentle clean pure level that this feels like sublimated ripe fruit framed by vivid citrus. Despite some residual sweetness this stays fresh. This is a wine that explains in one small sip and sniff what a good field blend can be all about. It is lovely now and only just starting to evolve. Drink until 2040. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$3,200.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$2,000.00 | |||||
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Experience a remarkable bottling from the respected cellars of Michel Gros with the Hautes Cotes de Nuits Fontaine Saint Martin Blanc 2016. Originating from Burgundy, France, this white wine is an astounding vintage, synonymous with Gros' family tradition of excellence cultivated since 1830. The intricately layered bouquet is provided by the terroir-reflective Chardonnay grapes, diligently hand-harvested to ensure optimum maturity and quality. Aged for a year in lightly toasted barrels, the result is an expressive, elegant, and meticulously balanced wine. Delicate, yet rich, flavours of citrus and honey mingle with the buttery undertones, culminating in a seamlessly smooth finish. A quintessential companion to seafood and white meat dishes, Michel Gros Hautes Cotes de Nuits Fontaine Saint Martin Blanc 2016 is a captivating Bleu Blanc Rouge revelation that continues the family heritage of novel, pristine Chardonnay wines. |
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Loire | 1 | 20 (MJ) | HK$3,800.00 | |||||
Matthew Jukes (20)I tasted this wine for the very first time on the 31st of January and it moved me so much that I wanted to write it up on the spot. It was clear to me that this bottle was a once in a lifetime Sauvignon Blanc experience. I was told I couldn’t review it because it was a preview sample and it was not due into the UK until later in the year. Since first tasting this wine I have been playing a game of trying to think of a finer wine made from this oft-derided and seemingly out-of-fashion-with-the-cognoscenti grape. From the hundreds of labels made by the acknowledged Sauvignon Blanc masters of the universe, I cannot think of a single wine which combines all of the epic SB attributes in one single wine. Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux, Haut Brion Blanc (ok, this has Semillon on board), Gembrook Hill, early Cloudy Bays, countless Chavignols from Cotat, Redde’s own wines, Cantine Terlano, Colterenzio, Reverdy, Spottswoode, Casa Marín, Dagueneau, Dog Point, Jackson Estate, The Berrio, Iona, Viña Leyda, Dry Creek Vineyards, Larry Cherubino’s epic 2017, The Lane Vineyard’s Gathering (again with Semillon loitering with intent), Shaw Smith, Cape Point Vineyards, Duckhorn, Greywacke, Boulay, Pellé and on and on, are all fantastic Sauvignons, but they are not as complete nor as enchanting at 2017 Barre à Mine. We can all circumnavigate the globe and pick any one of a hundred talented Sauvignon Blanc wizards’ creations and while their wines are undoubtedly delicious, impactful and worthy of admiration, I cannot remember a bottle which has the cosmic balance or the inescapable magic that this one does. I tasted it again last night and came to the conclusion that this is a wine which cannot be improved so, while I never thought that this day would come, I am overjoyed to give a Sauvignon Blanc a perfect 20/20 in my tasting notes. Barre à Mine translates as ‘Crowbar’. Never has such a blunt instrument inspired such an exquisite flavour. |
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Loire | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$2,790.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)Produced from a flint site that needed to be blown up to make the terroir and made from relatively young vines, this is initially a tender and supple style with a whiff of gunsmoke/flint, a taut line of precision that runs through its core, a mere hint of green herbs reminding you that Pouilly is a Sauvignon producer and even a hint of white pepper. It's a powerful style that has an attractive sense of bitterness holding it together. At just 13%, this is wonderfully balanced, aromatic and driven in this vintage. You may even feel this sense of spice that warms the palate, almost like you've had a warming Indian curry - it's not the alcohol but something else - maybe it's the lint. Unique and intriguing. |
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Loire | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$2,590.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)Starting to take on a deep golden hue, the 1997 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon is a sensuous sweet wine (92g/L of residual sugar) that offers ripe and concentrated flavors of apricot jam, cooked oranges botrytis-derived spices (60% of the fruit was affected by botrytis, a high proportion for this wine). It is intense, rich and honeyed, coating the palate with its sucrosity. There's just enough acidity here to keep things going but it does not have the vivacious refreshment of cooler years, providing a weightier, fully charged expression. The finish is lengthy and fragrant. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 95+ (WA) | HK$9,500.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95+)The Pape Clement 2016 Blanc is a blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 36% Sémillon, 9% Sauvignon Gris and 5% Muscadelle. It leaps from the glass with gregarious scents of ripe peaches, fresh grapefruit and key lime pie plus touches of cedar, honeysuckle and toast. Medium-bodied, the palate offers fantastic precision and depth, with layers of citrus and stone fruit flavors supported by a racy line of freshness, finishing very long. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$5,890.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)One of the whites of the vintage, the 2020 Château Pape Clément Blanc is based on 62% Sauvignon Blanc, 33% Semillon, 4% Sauvignon Gris, and the remaining 1% Muscadelle, all of which was raised in a mix of new and used oak. This beauty stopped me in my tracks and offers a massive nose of honeyed limes, white flowers, tropical fruit, crushed stone, and orange marmalade. With the vintage’s vibrant sense of freshness, full-bodied richness, a stacked mid-palate, and a fabulous mouthfeel, this truly sensational white is an incredible achievement, and hats off to the team at Pape Clement! Give bottles 2-3 years and enjoy over the following two decades or so. |
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Rhone | 1 | 19+ (MJ) | HK$2,870.00 | |||||
Matthew Jukes (19+)There is extraordinary equilibrium in this sensational wine. It is so finely balanced it is baffling, and the depth and richness is offset with the most dramatic acid and strident minerality I have seen in a wine of this style. There are profound meadow-flower and stone fruit flavour here which enchant the senses but they are marshalled brilliantly by the citrus pith and green apple skin raspiness on the finish. This is the most exciting Chevalier I have ever tasted and it rivals the very best whites from this region and others besides. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 95 (WA) | HK$2,400.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)Rated - No tasting note given. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 96 (VN (AG)) | HK$2,400.00 | |||||
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (96)Lemon peel, white flowers, mint and slate are some of the many notes that are woven throughout the 2014 Pavillon Blanc. The interplay of bright, citrus-driven flavors and palate texture is compelling. This is the first vintage in which a portion of the Blanc was aged in 500-liter barrels, a format that helps preserve freshness and tension. In early 2015, I thought the Pavillon Blanc could be the most compelling of Margaux's 2014s. I still feel the same way. |
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