France - All White Wines
France is revered for its exceptional white wines, which showcase the country's rich winemaking heritage, diverse terroirs, and unwavering commitment to quality. Today, let us embark on a journey through the best white wines that France has to offer, exploring renowned vineyards and the regions that give birth to these extraordinary expressions.
In Burgundy, the appellations of Chablis, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet stand tall as the epitome of excellence in white wine production. Wineries such as Domaine Raveneau, Domaine Dauvissat, and Domaine Leflaive craft mesmerizing Chardonnays that capture the essence of the region's unique Kimmeridgian limestone soils. These wines exhibit precision, purity, and a remarkable balance of mineral notes, citrus flavors, and vibrant acidity.
Moving to the Loire Valley, the vineyards of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are celebrated for their exceptional Sauvignon Blancs. Domaine Vacheron, Domaine Didier Dagueneau, and Domaine Pascal Jolivet create expressive and terroir-driven wines that showcase the region's distinct flinty minerality, zesty citrus, and herbaceous undertones.
Further northeast in France, in the region of Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Domaine Trimbach, and Domaine Weinbach produce stunning white wines from varietals like Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris. These wines display remarkable depth, aromatic complexity, and a balance between sweetness and acidity, reflecting the region's unique microclimates and granite-rich soils.
In Bordeaux, the region of Graves is renowned for its white wines, particularly those crafted from the classic grape varieties of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Château Haut-Brion, Château Pape Clément, and Domaine de Chevalier are esteemed vineyards that produce rich and age-worthy white Bordeaux wines. These wines exhibit a beautiful interplay of tropical fruit flavors, vibrant acidity, and a touch of toasty oak.
Finally, in the Rhône Valley, the appellation of Condrieu shines as a beacon of excellence in Viognier production. Renowned vineyards such as Domaine Georges Vernay and Domaine Yves Cuilleron create remarkable Viognier wines that seduce the senses with their exotic aromas of apricot, peach, and delicate floral notes. These wines showcase richness, elegance, and a silky texture that lingers on the palate.
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France - All White Wines
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$6,420.00 | |||||
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A testament to impeccable winemaking, Chantereves Santenay Blanc 2020 is a gem unearthed from Santenay, the southern gateway to Côte d'Or. This Burgundy, lovingly crafted by Guillaume Bott and Tomoko Kuriyama, founders of Maison Chantereves, exemplifies the precision and elegance associated with their wines. With biodynamically farmed, old Chardonnay vines gracing limestone-clay soils, this white wine presents an enticing complex array of citrus fruits, green apple, and mineral notes, engendered through 12 months of crafting in French oak barrels. Purity of fruit, ample acidity, and an exquisitely balanced body make Chantereves Santenay Blanc 2020 an undisputable palate charmer. Notably, this vintage has a marvellous ageing potential, emphasising gradual, enticing evolution. If the quintessential Burgundian experience appeals, don't look beyond the Chantereves Santenay Blanc 2020. |
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Roussillon | 1 | 90 (WA) | HK$8,655.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (90)Bila Haut's entry-level white is a super value. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Macabeu, Vermentino and Marsanne, the 2017 Côtes du Roussillon les Vignes de Bila Haut Blanc is plump, round and richly textured in the mouth, yet it's also refreshing, with vibrant flavors of tangerine zest underscored by briny notes on the finish. |
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Rhone | 1 | - | HK$2,240.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 3 | 100 (RP) | HK$10,395.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate - Robert Parker (100)The 2011 Ermitage Cuvee de l’Oree comes from a lieu-dit known as Les Murets planted with 80- to 90-year-old Marsanne vines. The bouquet offers up scents of Asian spices, lychee nuts, white currant liqueur and peach and apricot marmalade. This stunning, honeyed, flamboyant white is perfection in a glass. Drink it over the next half century. |
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Rhone | 1 | 99 (WA) | HK$8,890.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (99)The 2012 Ermitage Cuvee de l'Oree is still firing on all cylinders, sporting heavenly notes of powdered rock, white flowers, honeyed orange blossom, white currants and a saltiness that keeps you coming back to the glass. Full-bodied, voluptuous and decadent, drink it anytime over the coming 2-3 decades. |
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Rhone | 2 | 100 (WA) | HK$10,840.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)Leading off three single-vintage whites from Hermitage, the stunning 2013 Ermitage Cuvee de L’Orée has an off-the-hook bouquet that includes just about everything you could think of when considering Hermitage Blanc. White peach, white flowers, almond paste, quince and wet rock are just some of the nuances, and it packs a serious punch on the palate, with full-bodied richness, a flamboyant, expansive texture and riveting focus and purity. Give it a year or so and drink it over the following 2-3 decades. |
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Rhone | 1 | 97 (DC) | HK$8,620.00 | |||||
Decanter (97)Rich and opulent on the nose, with yellow peach and honeycomb. Very full bodied, with that immediate internal sweet ripeness of fruit that often marks out this cuvée. Good balancing acidity here, with real intensity of concentrated sappy fruits. Huge length, impressive power and a great mineral expression. It coats the mouth, and somehow stays fresh despite its richness. Old vine Marsanne (over 70 years old) grown on the pebbly, sand and clay soils of the lieu-dit Les Murets. 80% is matured in demi-muid for 11 months, 15% new oak, and the rest in stainless steel. 2017 is an exceptional year for de l'Orée. |
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Rhone | 2 | 98+ (JD) | HK$8,310.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (98+)Leading off the single vineyard Hermitage whites, the 2018 Ermitage De L’Orée is all Marsanne, from the Les Murets lieu-dit, brought up mostly in used demi-muids. Orange blossom, crushed citrus, spice box, white flowers, beautiful minerality, and vivid charcoal notes emerge from the glass of this beautiful, concentrated, opulent Hermitage, which has a stacked mid-palate and a level of structure fitting for a red wine. It's a brilliant wine that's going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and keep for 20+. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$8,195.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)Moving to the three single vineyard Hermitage Blancs, these are all perfect wines yet offer distinct characters. The 2019 Ermitage De L’Orée comes from more limestone soils in the Les Murets lieu-dit, on the eastern side of the appellation and was brought up in 15% new demi-muids. It reveals a vivid gold hue to go with gorgeous honeyed peach, white currants, quince, crushed stone, and white flower-like aromas and flavors. This full-bodied white has terrific concentration, a rich, layered mouthfeel, beautiful acidity, and a finish that just won't quit. Offering more fat and opulence than the L'Ermite and more minerality than the Le Meal, this pinnacle Hermitage Blanc needs a year or three of bottle age, then should drink nicely for 5-7 years, at which point it's best forgotten in the cellar for another decade. It should last for 20-30 years. |
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Rhone | 1 | 98 (JD) | HK$7,425.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (98)Also all Marsanne from the eastern side of Hermitage, raised in 15% new demi-muids, the 2020 Ermitage De L’Orée is full-bodied and concentrated, yet stays tight and reserved on the palate. Giving up beautiful white currant, crushed stone, spice, honeysuckle, and charcoal aromas and flavors, it’s a serious, age-worthy Hermitage that needs to be forgotten for 3-4 years, and it will evolve for over two decades. |
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Rhone | 19 | - | HK$7,960.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (WA) | HK$19,135.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)This is one of the greatest dry white wines I have ever tasted. The 1999 Ermitage l'Ermite is a liquid mineral, crystalline expression. It is the essence of its grape as well as terroir. It may be the greatest expression of terroir I have seen outside of a handful of Alsatian Rieslings (Clos Ste. Hune comes to mind). It has that transparent character that terroiristes talk more about than actually recognize. Drinking it is like consuming a liquified stony concoction mixed with white flowers, licorice, and honeyed fruits. It is frightfully pure, dense, and well-delineated. As I said last year, There is no real fruit character, just glycerin, alcohol, and liquid stones. That's about it, but, wow, what an expression! Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050. This is for the connoisseur of rare wines. Along with Gerard and Jean-Louis Chave, Chapoutier is producing the finest expressions of white Hermitage. His single vineyard cuvees are to die for if you like these eccentric, idiosyncratic, mammoth dry whites. |
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Rhone | 1 | 94 (VN) | HK$33,205.00 | |||||
Vinous (94)Brilliant yellow. Vibrant, mineral-accented aromas of pear, Meyer lemon and jasmine; hints of smoky lees, iodine and fennel emerge with aeration. Sappy, deeply concentrated orchard and pit fruit, melon and brioche flavors are sharpened by an incisive mineral nuance. Finishes sappy, minerally and extremely long, with echoes of citrus pith and dusty minerals adding cut and focus. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (WA) | HK$25,770.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)One of the most singular wines I’m able to taste each year is unquestionably the l’Ermite Blanc from Chapoutier and it certainly lives up to the billing in 2015. Offering what I can only describe as a liquid rock (a liqueur of rocks?) character intermixed with notes of buttered citrus, pineapple, smoked meats, charcoal and toast, the 2015 Ermitage l’Ermite is full-bodied, decadent and locked and loaded on the palate. It needs 2-3 years of cellaring and I suspect will keep for half a century |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (WA) | HK$25,390.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)As in 2016, my favorite of the white parcel selections this year is the 2017 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc (231 cases produced), as it perfectly balances richness and power with refinement and structure. Toasted brioche and citrus marmalade, honey and truffle notes deliver sheer full-bodied, mouth-filling decadence, supported by austere notes of crushed granite, zesty grapefruit rind and cooling brine. Huge and intense yet refreshing, it's the essence of granite-grown Marsanne. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$22,245.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)Another truly flawless wine from this dream team is the 2018 Ermitage L’Ermite Blanc, which comes from a vineyard located at the top of Hermitage Hill and was brought up in 20-25% new demi-muids. Offering a magical bouquet of liqueur of rock, quince, poached pears, orange blossom, and honeysuckle, it's a powerful, super-rich, expressive, full-bodied white that could come from nowhere else in the world. It's approachable today (it needs plenty of air) yet won't hit prime for another 7-8 years or so. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (WA) | HK$28,790.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)Since I reviewed the 2019 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc last year (98+), I had some doubts about spending the time to re-review it. But one taste had me transfixed. Hints of crushed stone and subtle oak appear on the nose, backed by waves of honeyed pear and pineapple, plus enough invigorating citrus to provide a sense of freshness. Full-bodied and rich without being heavy, this has come into its own, being incredibly long, balanced and ethereal on the finish. Amazing stuff! |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$18,050.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)Another perfect wine in the lineup is the 2020 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc, and white wine simply doesn’t get any better. I’ve never found another white that conveys a sense minerality and liquid rock like this cuvée, and the 2020 offers a piercing bouquet of white currants, quince, honeyed flowers, charcoal, and scorched earth, with celery seed and wild fennel notes developing with air. A huge, rich, massive wine, it has awesome purity and precision and a great finish. It’s one of my favorite white wines in the world. This demands 3-5 years of bottle age and will have 20, 30, if not 40 years of longevity, although I find estimating the evolution of Hermitage Blanc one of the most challenging and difficult parts of the job. |
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Rhone | 4 | - | HK$19,240.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 5 | - | HK$18,460.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 2 | 94 (WA) | HK$8,830.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94)Perhaps the most surprising thing is how spectacular the 2002 whites are from Michel Chapoutier. Because of space limitations, I am only listing the numerical score for this wine, which is evolved, but exceptional for such a challenging vintage. As I have said so many times over the last 15 years, the top Chapoutier wines are meant for very long term drinking, and are not designed for immediate gratification. Everything Chapoutier is doing, from his bio-dynamically farmed vineyard to tiny yields, extended fermentations, indigenous yeasts, and no fining or filtration, is done to produce the essence of a vineyard and a vintage. His track record since 1989 and 1990 admirably proves that these are indeed remarkable wines made by a young genius who refuses to compromise. Michel Chapoutier has been misunderstood by some of his peers, and there is a lot of jealousy when someone this young is so incredibly talented, but it is an irrefutable fact that these are wines of singular greatness as well as longevity. |
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Rhone | 1 | 96 (WA) | HK$11,120.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96)More over the top and decadent than the Cuvee de l’Orée, the 2005 Ermitage le Meal Blanc has overflowing notes of celery seed, sautéed peaches, honeycomb and underlying minerality that literally come soaring from the glass. Full-bodied, thick, unctuous and hedonistic to the max, it lacks a touch of the precision found in the Cuvee de l’Orée, yet makes up for it in sheer hedonistic pleasure and exuberance. It has the concentration to continue drinking nicely for another two decades or more. |
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Rhone | 1 | 99 (JD) | HK$11,600.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (99)Just as good as the de l’Orée, but in a very different style, the medium gold-hued 2006 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc has a complex, layered perfume of honeysuckle, orange blossom, celery seed, caramelized stone fruits, and acacia flowers. Just about pure perfection on the palate, it’s full-bodied, deep, and incredibly concentrated, with a stacked mid-palate, an unctuous, opulent texture, and a gorgeous finish. This is another magical Hermitage Blanc from the genius of Michel Chapoutier. Don’t miss it. |
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Rhone | 1 | 99 (WA) | HK$8,480.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (99)From a warm site and a hot vintage, the 2009 Ermitage le Meal Blanc was harvested on the August 28, and aged in 100% new French oak. Flirting with perfection and a full-bore, exotic, almost over-the-top expression of Marsanne, it has less minerality than the 2010, yet more of everything else with boatloads of caramelized fruits, buttered citrus, white flowers, honey and crushed rocks all soaring from the glass. Rich, layered, exuberant, unctuous and exotic, with stunning freshness despite it's thickness and weight, drink this incredible white anytime over the coming 30-40 years. |
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Rhone | 1 | 99 (WA) | HK$10,040.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (99)Surprisingly, I preferred the 2011 Ermitage le Meal Blanc over the 2012 on this occasion and it showed a more flamboyant, sexy style in its caramelized pineapple, tropical, honeyed and floral personality. Big, rich and decadent, with fabulous fruit intensity and length, this rock star flirts with perfection and will keep for another 3-4 decades. |
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Rhone | 1 | 99 (DC) | HK$8,655.00 | |||||
Decanter (99)Aromatically a different register to the 2014 de l'Orée tasted directly beforehand. This is less richly fruited, with a more herbal, almost vegetal note, like tomato stalk. A little closed on the nose. Full-bodied, and grand. Good acidity that feels firm and gently steely. Great amplitude, a sensation that stays with you into the length. A forceful white Hermitage, that still has great freshness, energy and (relatively speaking for a white Hermitage) precise acidity. So long. A surging tsunami of a wine. |
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Rhone | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$8,205.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)Vivid gold. Powerful, mineral-tinged Meyer lemon, nectarine and pear nectar scents show excellent clarity and complicating honey, fennel and smoky lees accents. Vibrant and expansive in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors along with suggestions of buttered toast and honeydew melon that build on the back half. Shows impressive energy and finishes silky and extremely long, featuring lingering floral and honey nuances. |
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Rhone | 2 | 97-99 (WA) | HK$7,190.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97-99)Is le Méal the most complex and complete lieu-dit on Hermitage, when considering both red and white wines? The 2018 Ermitage le Méal Blanc certainly makes a case for the white, offering honeyed, complex notes of mixed citrus, pineapple, pear and melon, structural notes of crushed stone, ample weight and richness on the palate and a long, vibrant finish. Just terrific. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$7,935.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)The richest and most fruit loaded of the trio is the 2019 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which comes from a warmer terroir. This killer Hermitage Blanc has a vivid gold hue as well as a crazy good nose of quince, honeyed currants, acacia flowers, spice, and orange marmalade. It doesn't have the minerality of the L'Ermite (and to a lesser extent, the De l’Orée) yet has a more opulent, fat, unctuous style that's still flawlessly balanced and remarkably pure. This is another magical Hermitage from Chapoutier that does everything right. I followed this bottle for multiple days and it only improved with air. It's certainly the more early drinking of these three single vineyard releases, yet it still deserves 2-4 years of bottle age and should keep for 30 years or more. |
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Rhone | 1 | 100 (JD) | HK$7,440.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (100)I was blown away by the 2020 Ermitage Le Méal Blanc, which is certainly the finest vintage of this cuvée I’ve tasted. From the pure south-facing Méal lieu-dit (which is the warmest terroir on Hermitage), it was vinified and aged 70% demi-muids (10% new) and 30% in stainless steel. Straight-up heavenly notes of white currants, powdered rock, celery seed, honeysuckle, and toasted almonds all define the bouquet, and it’s full-bodied and concentrated on the palate, with that rare mix of richness and freshness. Hermitage Blanc doesn’t get any better. I love this today, yet it will certainly benefit from a year or two of bottle age, drink well for 3-5 years, at which point, it’s probably best to wait until a solid 15 years after the vintage. |
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