France - All White Wines
France is revered for its exceptional white wines, which showcase the country's rich winemaking heritage, diverse terroirs, and unwavering commitment to quality. Today, let us embark on a journey through the best white wines that France has to offer, exploring renowned vineyards and the regions that give birth to these extraordinary expressions.
In Burgundy, the appellations of Chablis, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet stand tall as the epitome of excellence in white wine production. Wineries such as Domaine Raveneau, Domaine Dauvissat, and Domaine Leflaive craft mesmerizing Chardonnays that capture the essence of the region's unique Kimmeridgian limestone soils. These wines exhibit precision, purity, and a remarkable balance of mineral notes, citrus flavors, and vibrant acidity.
Moving to the Loire Valley, the vineyards of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are celebrated for their exceptional Sauvignon Blancs. Domaine Vacheron, Domaine Didier Dagueneau, and Domaine Pascal Jolivet create expressive and terroir-driven wines that showcase the region's distinct flinty minerality, zesty citrus, and herbaceous undertones.
Further northeast in France, in the region of Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Domaine Trimbach, and Domaine Weinbach produce stunning white wines from varietals like Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris. These wines display remarkable depth, aromatic complexity, and a balance between sweetness and acidity, reflecting the region's unique microclimates and granite-rich soils.
In Bordeaux, the region of Graves is renowned for its white wines, particularly those crafted from the classic grape varieties of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Château Haut-Brion, Château Pape Clément, and Domaine de Chevalier are esteemed vineyards that produce rich and age-worthy white Bordeaux wines. These wines exhibit a beautiful interplay of tropical fruit flavors, vibrant acidity, and a touch of toasty oak.
Finally, in the Rhône Valley, the appellation of Condrieu shines as a beacon of excellence in Viognier production. Renowned vineyards such as Domaine Georges Vernay and Domaine Yves Cuilleron create remarkable Viognier wines that seduce the senses with their exotic aromas of apricot, peach, and delicate floral notes. These wines showcase richness, elegance, and a silky texture that lingers on the palate.
France - All White Wines
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Bordeaux | 5 | 96 (DC) | HK$2,735.00 | |||||
Decanter (96)Gorgeous nose full of exotic spices, candied fruit, orange, apricot and honeyed brioche. Lovely unctuous texture here, it's fat but smooth - like thick smooth fruity caramel, quite defined and straight but with a roundness and generosity with pineapple, mango, violet even giving an appealing florality, and these lovely almost bitter orange edges. It's still a bit young but with great vibrancy right now, acidity which gives energy and life all the way through. Lifted and bright. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 17+ (JR) | HK$1,760.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (17+)Full bottle all of 1,405 g. 95% Sémillon, 4% Sauvignon Blanc, 1% Muscadelle. Cask sample. 18 months in oak envisaged. No information on yield. Greenish hint to the golden hue. Very classic with a botrytis note and some real freshness. Weight and integrity here with a savoury, even bacon-fat, finish. Not one of the sweetest wines, or what I probably mean is that the acidity is more pronounced than in many of its peers. Sleek and fresh. But probably for relatively early drinking. 13.5% Drink 2024 – 2038 |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 95-96 (JS) | HK$3,590.00 | |||||
James Suckling (95-96)Fantastic energy and length to this young Sauternes, with dried-apple, apple-pie, spice and cinnamon character . Medium body, medium sweetness and a vibrant finish. |
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Bordeaux | 25 | 95-97 (JD) | HK$1,710.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (95-97)The 2023 Château Coutet is another decadent, powerful Barsac in the vintage. Honeyed orange, toasted spices, sautéed pineapple, and assorted tropical, floral notes all just about jump from the glass, and it's full-bodied on the palate, with a wealth of fruit, good acidity, and a great finish. |
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Bordeaux | 6 | - | HK$3,485.00 | |||||
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A subtle delight for the discerning palate, Cru Barrejats 2003, emanates from Sauternes, a prominent wine-growing region in Bordeaux known for its exquisite sweet wines. This distinguished producer, Sangoyard Jean-Claude, is admired for his strict organic farming methods and meticulous harvesting. Cru Barrejats 2003 is known for the inclusion of the noble Botrytis cinerea, or 'noble rot', substantially contributing to its distinctive flavour profile. Crafted predominantly from Sémillon grapes, with a blend of Sauvignon and Muscadelle, a typical decanter of Cru Barrejats 2003 unveils enticing hints of honeyed apricots, tropical fruits, and a kiss of acacia honey, wrapped around a refreshing acid structure. Swirl, sip, and savour the opulent full-bodied experience, leaving a resounding lingering finish. Cru Barrejats 2003 is recognised worldwide, praised in esteemed wine publications, and remains a top contender in distinguished cellars, much to the delight of every fine wine connoisseur when carefully poured into the glass. |
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Rhone | 4 | - | HK$3,415.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 2 | 97 (DC) | HK$2,280.00 | |||||
Decanter (97)A particularly floral expression, with lavender and violets on the nose among the apricot fruit. Full-bodied, but still fluid on the palate, this has a real intensity and freshness, a sense of tension and minerality. Long finish that's not overburdened by oak. This has a sense of straightness and direction despite the breadth on the palate and open aromatic display. Very well balanced, finishing floral. Selection of parcels grown on biotite granite, vinified then aged nine months in barriques and foudres. Drinking Window 2021 - 2030 |
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Rhone | 1 | - | HK$3,045.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 2 | - | HK$1,210.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 5 | - | HK$1,005.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 4 | - | HK$2,715.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 4 | - | HK$2,150.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 3 | - | HK$1,940.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 4 | - | HK$1,840.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$345,755.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)The 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru boasts a bouquet that stops you in your tracks. It is blessed with stunning delineation despite just a subtle reduction – traces of white chocolate and white truffles underlying the electrifying flint-like aromas. The palate is crisp and fresh, the warmth of that growing season imparting weight and presence to this Puligny-Montrachet, long and persistent with a hint of ginger towards the finish, completing a truly awesome Folatières. 1,455 bottles produced. Tasted at Carré des Feuillants restaurant in Paris. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98.0 | HK$17,285.00 | |||||
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (VN (NM)) | HK$39,805.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (100)Just weeks after tasting the 2001 Château d’Yquem at the estate, another bottle was served at a lunch in London and it was perfection. The aromatics are practically identical and likewise the palate, but this bottle, which had been decanted, displays a scintilla more tension, perhaps more "vibrancy" that so effortlessly counterbalances the richness. Irrespective of points, it is simply one of the most magnificent wines of any kind that can pass your lips. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100.0 | HK$15,865.00 | |||||
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (WS) | HK$17,455.00 | |||||
Wine Spectator (100)This is very long and intense. Really impressive. Full and very sweet, yet racy and fresh, with spicy botrytis character. Fantastic. Score range: 95-100 -JS |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98+ (WA) | HK$17,735.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (98+)Pale to medium gold colored, the 2007 d'Yquem delivers powerful scents of tropical fruits—dried mangoes and pineapple paste—accented by acacia honey, toasted almonds and woodsmoke with hints of chalk dust, kettle corn and lime blossom. The palate reveals one of those vintages that shape-shifts into an apparently drier style than it is, largely thanks to its uber-racy backbone of freshness and layered mineral-inspired flavors, finishing with a regal, satin-textured savoriness. Difficult to resist now, this will be one of those Rip Van Winkle vintages that can be predicted to cellar not just for decades but for generations. For number crunchers: 14.2% alcohol, 137 grams per liter residual sugar, and total acidity is 3.7 grams per liter H2SO4. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 97 (WE) | HK$15,510.00 | |||||
Wine Enthusiast (97)96-98 Barrel sample. Impressively balanced, with the fruit rich, intense with a golden glow. The acidity is as important as the freshness, giving a delicious lift to the core of dry, concentrated botrytis. Obviously a great wine for long-term aging in a great Sauternes year. |
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Bordeaux | 2 | 100 (WA) | HK$21,435.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)Pale to medium gold colored, the 2009 d'Yquem bursts from the glass with gregarious crème caramel, allspice, dried apricots, mandarin peel and pineapple upside down cake scents plus a fragrant undercurrent of fungi, acacia honey, candied ginger, musk perfume and frangipani. Full-bodied and full-on hedonic in the mouth, the rich, tightly wound layers are still amazingly youthful with bags of citrus sparks and an incredibly long, perfumed finish. Possessing a residual sugar of 157 grams per liter and 13.6% alcohol as well as a laser-focused line of freshness, the rock-solid structure and through-the-roof opulence here is simply mind blowing. Pure perfection. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98 (WI) | HK$29,045.00 | |||||
The Wine Independent (98)A blend of 70% Semillon and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, with 138 grams per liter of residual sugar, the 2010 Yquem has a pale to medium straw-gold color. After considerable aeration, it erupts from the glass with a powerhouse of flamboyant notes of crystalized ginger, honeydew melon, mango pudding, and lime leaves, followed by nuances of honeysuckle, white pepper, fennel seed, and crushed rocks. The palate is fantastically fruity, youthful and oh-so-rich, delivering citrus and tropical fruit layers with compelling tension, finishing very long and with wonderful purity. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 99 (WS) | HK$17,355.00 | |||||
Wine Spectator (99)A lovely, creamy, tropical style, with mango, papaya and guava notes lending a caressing feel, while singed almond and warm piecrust accents blossom through the lush finish. Just when you think that's all there is, toasted coconut, fig, orange blossom and persimmon details kick in, lending length and dimension. The finish is ridiculously long. Best from 2020 through 2060. -JM |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 95-97 (WA) | HK$20,220.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95-97)Firstly, you notice the color, which is a touch deeper than recent vintages at this stage. The bouquet is quite honeyed and rich for Yquem at this early juncture, with subtle scents of peach skin, white flowers, and a puff of chalk and frangipane. The palate is viscous on the entry, all about the texture at first, coating the mouth with luscious botrytized fruit. There are touches of Seville orange marmalade, fresh apricot, a hint of spice and passion fruit. This is imbued with impressive depth and weight, perhaps an Yquem that is determined to make an impression after last year-s absence. It might not possess the finesse of a top flight Yquem, but it has immense power and persistency. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 100 (WA) | HK$17,285.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (100)Following a very long harvest stretching nearly two months, the 2015 Château d'Yquem came in at 13.9% alcohol and 144 grams per liter of residual sugar, sporting a pH of 3.65 and six grams per liter of tartaric acid. None of these numbers, however, even remotely begin to tell you how profound this wine is. The nose opens with electric notes of ripe pineapples, green mango, orange blossoms and lemon tart with hints of fungi, lime zest, crushed rocks and jasmine. The freshness on the palate is just astonishing, permeating and lifting layer upon layer of tropical fruits and earthy notions, all encased in a sumptuous texture and culminating in a very, very long, mineral-tinged finish. Truly, this is a legendary vintage for d'Yquem. I've been conservative with my drinking window here, and I would not be at all surprised if our descendants are drinking this vintage well into the next century. |
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Bordeaux | 2 | 99 (JS) | HK$19,365.00 | |||||
James Suckling (99)A very classic Yquem. Breathtakingly wide spectrum of floral honey, exotic fruit (passion fruit, mango and pineapple), caramel and marzipan aromas. But none of this is a jot too much. In fact, the wine is extremely precise and finely nuanced. Wonderful freshness and textural complexity, in spite of the considerable concentration and extravagance. Very suave and sensual finish that goes on and on. Drink or hold. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98-99 (JS) | HK$18,140.00 | |||||
James Suckling (98-99)The tannins and phenolic tension are very impressive to this. Dried-lemon undertones and burning botrytis. Full-to medium-bodied, linear and racy. Beautiful fruit and intensity. Such clarity. Extreme but wonderful style. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98 (WA) | HK$19,295.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (98)The 2018 d'Yquem is all lime cordial, grapefruit oil and mandarin peel to begin. With a little coaxing, the fireworks really begin, letting off a whole array of honeysuckle, candied ginger, dried pineapple, lemon pastilles, chalk dust and sea spray scents, followed by a savory undercurrent of shaved almonds, allspice and baking bread. The palate is an exercise in polish and poise, featuring the most gorgeously creamy texture and bright, sparkling freshness, framing all the densely laden tropical and citrus fruit layers, finishing with a powerful BANG of profound floral and spice perfume. It is wonderfully sweet, yes, but that—paradoxically for a "sweet wine"—is almost beside the point. |
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Bordeaux | 1 | 98 (VN (NM)) | HK$15,980.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (98)Owners LVMH took the decision to delay the release of the 2019 Yquem until spring 2022. It was tasted with winemaker Sandrine Garbay in London. After the summer drought when Sauternes received just 2.5mm of rain until 26 July, that day saw a 112mm deluge that replenished underground reserves and gave ripening the push it needed. Dry and warm conditions prevailed throughout September when there was no sign of botrytis infection. That was finally provoked by 38mm of rain between 21 and 25 of September, followed by warm clement weather. After minor picking of Sauvignon Blanc on 7 of October, the main harvest began in earnest on 10 October. Pickers worked over the following five days, including Sunday. Time was of the essence because, as forecasts predicted, the weather suddenly changed on 14 of October with 40mm or rain. After that, the picking teams skirted between showers between 17 and 22 of October, though by now the fruit had begun to deteriorate. Therefore, the key aspect of this Yquem is the extremely tight picking window. The final blend contains 138g/L residual sugar, which is slightly less than the previous vintage, with 5.5g/L total acidity and 14.4% alcohol. Tasting the 2019, I noticed that it has a slightly paler hue compared to recent vintages (though I never read too much into the colour of young Sauternes.) For certain, it has a highly-aromatic bouquet that is beguiling in purity, enticing aromas of honeysuckle and saffron, soon joined by camomile, white flowers and orange blossom. It has wonderful delineation and gains intensity with aeration. The palate is supremely well-balanced with fine bead of acidity. Very harmonious and armed with just the right amount of viscosity, this Yquem is surprisingly understated at first but gains presence, offering irresistible flavours of layers of honey, lemongrass, lemon thyme and orange pith. Yquem is so tempting in its youth, but I feel that this vintage will repay those with the nous to cellar for at least a decade. |
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