France
The vast and diverse wine regions of France, each with its own unique terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking techniques, are a treasure trove.
In Bordeaux, the birthplace of some of the world's most iconic wines, esteemed vineyards such as Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, and Château Haut-Brion produce exceptional red wines, showcasing the art of blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. The region is also renowned for its exquisite white wines, with vineyards like Château d'Yquem and Domaine de Chevalier producing legendary sweet wines.
Moving to Burgundy, the vineyards of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy, and Domaine Armand Rousseau capture the essence of the region's revered terroir, crafting exquisite red wines from the Pinot Noir grape. Meanwhile, Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Coche-Dury are celebrated for their world-class white wines, predominantly made from Chardonnay.
The Champagne region, known for its sparkling wines, boasts illustrious houses such as Krug, Dom Pérignon, and Moët & Chandon, as well as grower-producers like Pierre Péters and Jacques Selosse. These vineyards create exceptional sparkling wines using the traditional method, offering a symphony of delicate bubbles, elegant flavors, and vibrant acidity.
In the Rhône Valley, iconic vineyards like Chapoutier, E. Guigal, and Château de Beaucastel produce remarkable red wines in the northern appellations of Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, and Cornas, showcasing the elegance and power of Syrah. Further south, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is celebrated for its rich and full-bodied red blends, with Château Rayas and Clos des Papes leading the way.
In Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and omaine Trimbach craft exquisite white wines, including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, expressing the region's unique terroir and varietal character.
These are just a few highlights among the diverse array of wines that France offers. From the Loire Valley's crisp whites and elegant reds to the Languedoc-Roussillon's bold and robust wines, each region presents its own vinous treasures.
France
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (WA) | HK$8,495.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95)As I wrote shortly after it was bottled, the 2021 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes is one of the sites that Germain's team was able to thoroughly protect from the spring frosts (I remember driving past the parcel 10 days later, with it and Domaine Leflaive's vines standing out as the solitary island of green amidst a sea of desiccated buds), and the result is a wine that transcends the vintage. Offering up notes of waxy citrus rind, buttery pastry, iodine and white flowers, it's medium- to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a long, saline finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-94 (VN) | HK$16,365.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-94)Bright medium yellow. Aromas of yellow fruits, minerals and flowers, plus a hint of reduction. Conveys an impression of density without weight, with terrific acid tension giving the flavors of citrus fruits, flowers and spicy oak a sharply chiseled character in spite of the wine's element of reduction. Finishes sappy, savory, tactile and dry, with noteworthy lift. Terrific potential here. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$10,500.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-96 (IB) | HK$8,710.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-96)From Ez Folatières, purchased as must. A lime streak runs through the mid yellow colour. This has notable density of bouquet without showing much detail yet. More substantial than the racy Pucelles, but retaining its own lively character behind the substantial flesh. Dense, generous, and with class. Drink from 2029-2038. Tasted: November 2023. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 89-91 (VN) | HK$7,485.00 | |||||
Vinous (89-91)The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru comes from bought must, the vines managed virtually organically except for one treatment during the growing season. This has a tightly wound, rather laconic bouquet that, despite coaxing, remains stubbornly mute. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh on the entry yet not quite achieving the same tension and nuance as the Puligny Champ Gain tasted alongside. |
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Burgundy | 3 | - | HK$9,590.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 1 | 88-90 (VN) | HK$14,600.00 | |||||
Vinous (88-90)The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne "Quintessence" Grand Cru comes from the Aloxe-Corton side, from a climat, and is made with purchased grapes from vines around 55–60 years old. The rather muted nose has trouble following on from the clearly more expressive Puligny Les Combettes. The palate is balanced with a fine bead of acidity, but the truth is that I find this missing the complexity and mineralité of a Grand Cru, surpassed by some of Girardin’s excellent Premier Crus this vintage. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (VN) | HK$12,900.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne "Quintessence" Grand Cru comes from a single parcel in Aloxe-Corton. This has more complexity and energy on the nose compared to the regular cuvée with fresh pineapple, grapefruit, crushed stone and a touch of mirabelle. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, harmonious and quite refined, not powerful on the finish but linear and poised. Eight barrels produced. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (IB) | HK$21,490.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (93-95)From the lower part of Le Charlemagne. There is a regular cuvee too. Lively fresh primrose. At the moment the oak shows a little stronger than the wine on the first nose. The fruit is pretty substantial on the palate, starting at the front, then gracefully continues through to a stony and salty finish. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted: November 2023. |
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Burgundy | 4 | 92-94 (BH) | HK$12,785.00 | |||||
Burghound (92-94)A ripe and beautifully layered mix speaks of ripe aromas of pear and apple compote, white flower and crushed anise. The succulent and highly seductive medium-bodied flavors that possess a borderline oily texture that contrasts noticeably with the powerful, serious and austere finale that is also very much built-to-age. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$5,830.00 | |||||
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Burgundy | 2 | - | HK$7,515.00 | |||||
Vincent Girardin Volnay 1er Cru Champans
(6x75cl)
2023
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Burgundy | - | 92-94 (VN (NM)) |
HK$2,950 - HK$3,605 |
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Vinous - Neal Martin (92-94)The 2023 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru was completely destemmed. As a result, I feel this has a more attractive fruit profile, with very well-defined red berry and light blood orange scents. The palate is balanced, fresh and vibrant. It has a lovely silky texture, but there is a real backbone to this Volnay, delivering a sorbet-like freshness and vivacity on the finish. This is excellent. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$9,475.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 1 | 17.5 (JR) | HK$1,800.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (17.5)Open and expressive pepper spice on the nose, with gorgeous fruit succulence and furry but rounded tannic feel. Such polish and poise! A real delight to taste. Finishes with excellent fruit intensity and fine, persistent tannin. |
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Rhone | 3 | 94 (WE) | HK$1,430.00 | |||||
Wine Enthusiast (94)Initially restrained aromas of zesty blackberry in this wine gain intricacies of rose petal, violet, graphite and dusty mineral. Sourced from the producer's younger vines and gentler slopes, its black cherry and berry flavors are zesty and pure yet anchored by granite and fine, persistent tannins. Ready now the wine should improve through 2030 and hold further. |
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Rhone | 4 | 93 (VN) | HK$1,430.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)Opaque ruby. Fresh blackberry and cherry scents, along with suggestions of baking spices, olive and pungent flowers. Appealingly sweet black and blue fruit flavors gain energy and spiciness with air while a smoky mineral element adds back-end cut. Even tannins add gentle grip to an impressively long, floral-tinged finish that leaves a spicy note behind. |
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Rhone | 1 | 93 (VN) | HK$2,150.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)Deep ruby. Spice-accented aromas of blackberry, violet and smoky minerals, with a hint of olive in the background. Concentrated yet lively on the palate, offering pliant dark berry, floral pastille and cracked pepper flavors and a salty touch of olive paste. Fleshes out steadily with air and shows fine clarity and appealing sweetness on the long, gently tannic finish. All de-stemmed fruit and no new oak. |
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Rhone | 1 | 93-95 (JD) | HK$1,325.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (93-95)Starting with what could be considered the entry level cuvée, the 2020 Cornas Granit 30 comes from further down the slope, from vines closer to the village. That's obviously not a bad thing, since this plump, full-bodied, beautifully textured Cornas has remarkable purity and elegance as well as richness. Blackberries, blueberries, subtle smoke, graphite, and violets all emerge from the glass, and it has a seamless, incredibly elegant texture. |
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Rhone | 1 | 96 (TA) | HK$2,530.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (96)Lieux-dits Patou, Mazard and Sauman, 70% destemmed, aged for 15 months in old barriques. A nose that draws you in and pulls you under; it’s very tightly wound for now, but contains fresh, ripe black fruits, Asian spices, soy and some woodland aromas. Full-bodied, but not massive or overly thick, it coats the palate in super-fresh fruit and very fine tannins. There is ample acidity too to help shape the wine. This is very powerful, but what hits you is the extraordinary aromatic and textural refinement of what can be an untameable terroir. Very, very long, saline finish. |
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Rhone | 1 | 94-96 (WA) | HK$950.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94-96)Tasted from tank prior to bottling, the 2016 Cornas Granit 60 has the potential to eclipse the 2015. The nose is an exciting blend of flowers, minerals and fruit, while the palate is full-bodied and generous without the hardness or austerity of the 2015. This standout 2016 finishes long, plush and bright. With only about 5,000 bottles made, shrewd buyers will snap it up on release. |
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Rhone | 1 | 94-96 (WA) | HK$1,800.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (94-96)Tasted from tank prior to bottling, the 2016 Cornas Granit 60 has the potential to eclipse the 2015. The nose is an exciting blend of flowers, minerals and fruit, while the palate is full-bodied and generous without the hardness or austerity of the 2015. This standout 2016 finishes long, plush and bright. With only about 5,000 bottles made, shrewd buyers will snap it up on release. |
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Rhone | 2 | 93 (VN) | HK$2,670.00 | |||||
Vinous (93)Inky ruby. Smoke-accented dark berries and cherry liqueur on the highly perfumed nose. Juicy and seamless in texture, offering appealingly sweet blackberry and boysenberry flavors underscored by a smoky mineral quality. Fine-grained tannins build steadily on a long, floral-tinged finish that leaves a salty olive note behind. |
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Rhone | 1 | 95-97 (WA) | HK$2,045.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95-97)Paris's 2018 Cornas Granit 60 boasts remarkably pure notes of cracked pepper, blueberries and raspberries. Full-bodied, lush and creamy, it perfectly captures the ripe essence of Syrah, then adds a firm grounding of crushed stone and firm tannins on the finish. It should have close to two decades of longevity. |
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Rhone | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$2,035.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)Glass-staining ruby. Intensely perfumed cherry and blackberry aromas are complemented by suggestions of licorice, candied flowers, olive paste and black pepper. Appealingly sweet and energetic on the palate, offering pliant cherry, dark berry preserve, exotic spice and floral pastille flavors that show impressive depth; a smoky mineral flourish gains strength on the back half. Shows superb energy and mineral thrust on the clinging finish, which is framed by velvety, slowly building tannins. |
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Rhone | 1 | 93 (WA) | HK$3,570.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (93)Combining power and elegance, the 2023 Cornas Granit 60 is beautiful, revealing aromas of violet, dark berries, grapefruit and spices. Medium- to full-bodied, deeper and more layered than Granit 30, it’s built around a fleshy core of fruit, perfectly framed by velvety, youthful tannins, concluding with a long, perfumed and ethereal finish. |
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Rhone | 1 | 95-97 (VN) | HK$960.00 | |||||
Vinous (95-97)(vines over 100 years old vines and no new oak) Brilliant purple. A complex, expansive bouquet evokes fresh black and blue fruits, Asian spices, incense, smoky minerals and olive paste. Deeply concentrated yet lively boysenberry, cherry pie, spicecake and bitter chocolate flavors are underscored by a building mineral quality. Shows a compelling blend of depth and litheness and finishes on a youthfully tannic note, displaying remarkable clarity and insistent mineral character. I don't think I have ever tasted as profound a wine as this one from Vincent Paris, who seems to be one of the most underrated and under-the-radar producers in the northern Rhône. |
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