France
The vast and diverse wine regions of France, each with its own unique terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking techniques, are a treasure trove.
In Bordeaux, the birthplace of some of the world's most iconic wines, esteemed vineyards such as Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, and Château Haut-Brion produce exceptional red wines, showcasing the art of blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. The region is also renowned for its exquisite white wines, with vineyards like Château d'Yquem and Domaine de Chevalier producing legendary sweet wines.
Moving to Burgundy, the vineyards of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy, and Domaine Armand Rousseau capture the essence of the region's revered terroir, crafting exquisite red wines from the Pinot Noir grape. Meanwhile, Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Coche-Dury are celebrated for their world-class white wines, predominantly made from Chardonnay.
The Champagne region, known for its sparkling wines, boasts illustrious houses such as Krug, Dom Pérignon, and Moët & Chandon, as well as grower-producers like Pierre Péters and Jacques Selosse. These vineyards create exceptional sparkling wines using the traditional method, offering a symphony of delicate bubbles, elegant flavors, and vibrant acidity.
In the Rhône Valley, iconic vineyards like Chapoutier, E. Guigal, and Château de Beaucastel produce remarkable red wines in the northern appellations of Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, and Cornas, showcasing the elegance and power of Syrah. Further south, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is celebrated for its rich and full-bodied red blends, with Château Rayas and Clos des Papes leading the way.
In Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and omaine Trimbach craft exquisite white wines, including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, expressing the region's unique terroir and varietal character.
These are just a few highlights among the diverse array of wines that France offers. From the Loire Valley's crisp whites and elegant reds to the Languedoc-Roussillon's bold and robust wines, each region presents its own vinous treasures.
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Burgundy | 1 | 95-98 (BH) | HK$19,605.00 | |||||
Burghound (95-98)(from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay). As is often the case, this is aromatically similar to the Chambolle 1er but it’s less expressive and perhaps more densely fruited. There is notably better mid-palate concentration to the substantially sized big-bodied flavors that also possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel while exuding an abundance of mineral character on the hugely long and impeccably well-balanced and youthfully austere finale. This Zen-like effort is superb and a wine that should also age gracefully over the next two decades. (95-98)/2040+ |
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Burgundy | 3 | 95-98 (BH) | HK$37,400.00 | |||||
Burghound (95-98)(from an incredible 6.46 ha parcel, which doesn’t include the .67 ha section planted to chardonnay). As is often the case, this is aromatically similar to the Chambolle 1er but it’s less expressive and perhaps more densely fruited. There is notably better mid-palate concentration to the substantially sized big-bodied flavors that also possess a positively gorgeous mouthfeel while exuding an abundance of mineral character on the hugely long and impeccably well-balanced and youthfully austere finale. This Zen-like effort is superb and a wine that should also age gracefully over the next two decades. (95-98)/2040+ |
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Burgundy | 16 | 95-97 (IB) | HK$21,250.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-97)Three tanks were made, in order of picking, then assembled as there is no terroir logic to them, though this has changed for 2022. A fine bright and reasonably deep purple. Classy with just a touch of pepper. Less immediately compelling that some previous vintages, but it is growing steadily in the glass. There is a huge volume of red and black fruit intertwined with a fresh mineral streak running through the middle, supplying excellent length to complete the job. Splendid stuff! A firmer finish but there is plenty of time for that to resolve. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (DC) | HK$6,015.00 | |||||
Decanter (98)A tasting of each of the seven 2022 Musigny VV sub-sections and an approximate blend hint at a wine of almost voluptuous sensuality, with expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit and hints of earth, smoke and liquorice that waft from the glass. The texture is powerfully tannic and dense but almost infinitely silky, and there is a dynamic interplay between the perfumed fruit and robust structure. Ideally, wait a decade before opening. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (DC) | HK$20,140.00 | |||||
Decanter (98)A tasting of each of the seven 2022 Musigny VV sub-sections and an approximate blend hint at a wine of almost voluptuous sensuality, with expressive mulberry and pomegranate fruit and hints of earth, smoke and liquorice that waft from the glass. The texture is powerfully tannic and dense but almost infinitely silky, and there is a dynamic interplay between the perfumed fruit and robust structure. Ideally, wait a decade before opening. |
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Burgundy | 19 | 97-99 (VN (NM)) | HK$20,425.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (97-99)I tasted the 2023 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru both as components from the seven different cuvées that make the final blend and as an approximation of the final blend itself. This has exquisite delineation on the nose: blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone and touches of undergrowth—very harmonious. The palate is medium-bodied, tightly wound and linear, with a sense of symmetry on the entry. But of all the Musigny tasted from barrel in 2023, this has perhaps the most nascent freshness, tension and complexity on the finish. A sense of completeness. Outstanding. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (VN) | HK$28,065.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has an open, expressive bouquet of red berry fruit plus touches of leather and black pepper; it does not quite possess the delineation of the domaine’s top-performing Vosne Premier Crus. The palate is medium-bodied with candied red fruit on the entry and a little more vanilla-y than expected, but there is a plushness and energy on the finish, and hints of dark chocolate on the aftertaste, which render this very sensual. Give this Clos Vougeot 4–5 years in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (VN) | HK$130,135.00 | |||||
Vinous (92)Good medium red. Subtly complex nose offers cherry, raspberry and minerals. Delivers the sweet fruit of 2007 in spades, with a slightly high-toned quality that adds to its sex appeal (all these 2007s have volatile acidity levels around 0.6, according to Liger-Belair, which helps to explain their expressiveness.) Fat and sexy wine, with a complicating saline nuance. Finishes with sweet tannins and superb length. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97 (TA) | HK$87,220.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (97)A combination of three parcels make up this wine, which is one of the better examples of this often overvalued Grand Cru. It's little marked by oak at present, with flavours that are just beginning to express themselves, but the tannins, the sweet red fruits and the chalky, minerally acidity are appealingy intertwined. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-96 (VN) | HK$46,020.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-96)A bevy of dark, baritone-inflected notes emerge from the 2013 Echézeaux. A rich, exotic wine, the 2013 is all about depth and towering structure. Echézeaux often yields relatively accessible Burgundies, but not here. Liger-Belair's 2013 is a big, big wine that is also going to require considerable cellaring. In 2013, this fruit did not come in until October 5, very late by Burgundy standards. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-96 (VN) | HK$92,485.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-96)A bevy of dark, baritone-inflected notes emerge from the 2013 Echézeaux. A rich, exotic wine, the 2013 is all about depth and towering structure. Echézeaux often yields relatively accessible Burgundies, but not here. Liger-Belair's 2013 is a big, big wine that is also going to require considerable cellaring. In 2013, this fruit did not come in until October 5, very late by Burgundy standards. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91+ (VN) | HK$26,705.00 | |||||
Vinous (91+)Good ruby-red. Wilder on the nose than the Reignots, offering very ripe scents of plum, dark chocolate, brown spices and game. Then big, rich and chocolatey in the mouth, a bit in the style of its 2015 sibling but quite backward and hard to judge today. I get the feeling that this wine is painfully young but I'd be more confident about its ability to reward long cellaring if it showed more of the berry intensity of the other 2014 crus I tasted at this address. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$33,540.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2015 Echézeaux Grand Cru is slightly darker in color than its peers. There is a fug of reduction on the nose that makes the fruit profile difficult to discern. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, quite masculine and surly in style, although there is impressive substance and grip on the finish. This is in an awkward stage, but I’m convinced it will coalesce and become much more coherent with bottle age. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (VN) | HK$44,660.00 | |||||
Vinous (98)The 2018 La Romanée Grand Cru shows quite a bit of new oak on the nose at the moment and this slightly obscures the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, beautifully structured, silky-smooth with palpable energy, tension and precision towards the finish. The aromatics might be entering a dumb phase, but the palate evidences a Grand Cru with serious ambition. This is an ethereal La Romanée that seems to care little for the summer heat of that year and just goes about its job. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 99 (DC) | HK$68,820.00 | |||||
Decanter (99)Liger-Belair starts with old vines: this year, 20% of the vines in La Romanée are more than 100 years of age. The result is a beautiful equilibrium between tension and lush, hedonistic fruit. 15–20% whole bunch fermentation and a gentle extraction deliver a sublime result, with a lovely, rich black cherry and plum fruit aroma marked by floral notes, and an earthy underpinning, coloured with oak spice. On the palate, firm tannins, generous extract and admirable freshness carry the wine to an extraordinary finish. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91 (VN) | HK$87,060.00 | |||||
Vinous (91)Dark red-ruby. Musky, very ripe, soil-driven scents of black raspberry, black cherry and menthol. Silky and fine-grained yet backward today owing to its medicinal reserve. This wine is hiding its sweetness in the early going but it displays lovely phenolic ripeness, not to mention good energy. I'd give it at least three or four years in the cellar. |
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