France
The vast and diverse wine regions of France, each with its own unique terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking techniques, are a treasure trove.
In Bordeaux, the birthplace of some of the world's most iconic wines, esteemed vineyards such as Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, and Château Haut-Brion produce exceptional red wines, showcasing the art of blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. The region is also renowned for its exquisite white wines, with vineyards like Château d'Yquem and Domaine de Chevalier producing legendary sweet wines.
Moving to Burgundy, the vineyards of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy, and Domaine Armand Rousseau capture the essence of the region's revered terroir, crafting exquisite red wines from the Pinot Noir grape. Meanwhile, Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Coche-Dury are celebrated for their world-class white wines, predominantly made from Chardonnay.
The Champagne region, known for its sparkling wines, boasts illustrious houses such as Krug, Dom Pérignon, and Moët & Chandon, as well as grower-producers like Pierre Péters and Jacques Selosse. These vineyards create exceptional sparkling wines using the traditional method, offering a symphony of delicate bubbles, elegant flavors, and vibrant acidity.
In the Rhône Valley, iconic vineyards like Chapoutier, E. Guigal, and Château de Beaucastel produce remarkable red wines in the northern appellations of Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, and Cornas, showcasing the elegance and power of Syrah. Further south, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is celebrated for its rich and full-bodied red blends, with Château Rayas and Clos des Papes leading the way.
In Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and omaine Trimbach craft exquisite white wines, including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, expressing the region's unique terroir and varietal character.
These are just a few highlights among the diverse array of wines that France offers. From the Loire Valley's crisp whites and elegant reds to the Languedoc-Roussillon's bold and robust wines, each region presents its own vinous treasures.
France
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Burgundy | 2 | 96-97 (WA) | HK$26,525.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96-97)Roumier vinifies separately and later assembles the fruits of white chalk and red (iron-rich) parcels that inform his 2005 Bonnes Mares. At the time of my visit he had retained one pure barrel of each component as an investigation into terroir and the results were as fascinating as the blended wine is fascinatingly and profoundly beautiful. The ferrous lot (55% of the final assemblage) displays ripe blackberry and raspberry berries, along with (red soil-born) pungent smokiness, Chartreuse-like herbal and floral essences. A liqueur-like presentation of black fruits temporarily overshadows the mysterious (white rock-born) meld of chalky minerality and beef marrow that wells up gradually on a creamy palate with tannins of utmost refinement. The tension and energy are riveting – lending the wine a dynamic, fleet-of-foot impression for all of its manifestly huge extract – with incisive brightness of palate-staining fruit and vibrant minerality leading to a finish of sensational clarity and length. Even here, by the way, Roumier employs only around 40% new wood. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (WS) | HK$28,035.00 | |||||
Wine Spectator (95)A touch of a vegetal element to the sweet cherry and woodsy spice flavors and a sinewy texture mark this red. It seems closed down now, with the structure dominating, but there's a smoldering intensity and energy that powers the long aftertaste. Offers both elegance and depth. Be patient. Best from 2014 through 2028. 110 cases imported. -BS |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98+ (VN (AG)) | HK$124,440.00 | |||||
Vinous - Antonio Galloni (98+)Then came the 2009 Bonnes-Mares. What a wine! While the Musigny showed more of a red fruit profile, the Bonnes-Mares was quite a bit darker. It also had a lot more underlying structure. With time in the glass, hints of menthol, tar and dried roses added complexity. Both wines took us on a journey. Ultimately, though, the Musigny gave up its charms easier, while the Bonnes-Mares continued to open up over several hours, seemingly with something new to say with each taste. It was flat-out monumental. The stuff dreams are made of. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95-97 (WA) | HK$133,325.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (95-97)The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is explosive and totally exciting. A big, broad- shouldered frame supports a core of black fruit, mint, flowers and licorice in this powerful, massively structured wine. Here, too, it is the wine’s energy and focus that truly stand out most. The finish turns weightless and totally sublime. As usual, I tasted the Bonnes-Mares from its two main components, and then in the blend, and it was the blend that was most convincing of the three wines. The 2010 Bonnes-Mares is a wine built for a long rest in the cellar before it begins to approach the early part of what promises to be a long drinking window. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 19.5 (JR) | HK$83,430.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (19.5)More youthful colour than many – mid garnet. Intriguing complexity with some violet notes. Really gorgeous breadth and balance with fruit and freshness. Still obviously gaining in interest and very long. Really smooth and with wonderful depth and persistence. The best 2011 so far in this tasting of top wines from that vintage. The sort of wine every burgundy drinker wants to find. Went on for a good minute… |
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Burgundy | 1 | 98 (TA) | HK$56,645.00 | |||||
Tim Atkin MW (98)Always served before Le Musigny and Les Amoureuses chez Roumier, this combines elements of both red and white soils across four separate parcels, all on the Chambolle-Musigny side of the Grand Cru. For all its texture and breadth, this has freshness and focus too with sapid red fruits, nuance and length. The oak needs a little time to fold into the wine, but who's in a rush with a Pinot like this? |
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Burgundy | 1 | 19 (JR) | HK$12,355.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (19)Dark crimson. Juicy and alluring on the nose. And then wonderfully rich and exciting on the palate. Great intensity and majesty. Woo hoo! Long and gorgeous. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (VN (NM)) | HK$10,245.00 | |||||
Vinous - Neal Martin (93-95)The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru was showing quite a lot of reduction on the nose when I visited (Christophe Roumier was taken aback, as it had been racked three weeks earlier). Fortunately, the palate shows great potential; it’s as beautifully balanced as ever, with a fine bead of acidity. This is more understated and less outgoing than other vintages encountered from barrel, and not quite as persistent on the finish, but with a fine dash of black pepper on the aftertaste. There is something very assured about this Bonnes-Mares, though this year, it is Les Amoureuses that sends tingles down the spine. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96-100 (IB) | HK$12,070.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (96-100)All three cuvées, white soil, red soil and the new plot, have been blended. Overall two-thirds of the blend comes from white soil Bonnes Mares. Two thirds whole bunch, one third new wood. Glowing rich purple, with a beautiful bouquet demonstrating exquisitely balanced fruit. Ripe of course but there are some red threads in with the darker fruit, fine acidity too, just a sumptuous covering of exquisite dark raspberry and a little touch of blackberry. Bravo! There is a lovely covering of flesh on top of natural vivacity. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96-100 (IB) | HK$35,820.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (96-100)All three cuvées, white soil, red soil and the new plot, have been blended. Overall two-thirds of the blend comes from white soil Bonnes Mares. Two thirds whole bunch, one third new wood. Glowing rich purple, with a beautiful bouquet demonstrating exquisitely balanced fruit. Ripe of course but there are some red threads in with the darker fruit, fine acidity too, just a sumptuous covering of exquisite dark raspberry and a little touch of blackberry. Bravo! There is a lovely covering of flesh on top of natural vivacity. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97-99 (IB) | HK$26,470.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (97-99)Beginning with the hugely deep but very fresh purple colour, The Roumier 2019 Bonnes Mares shows its majesty from the outset. The nose is backward, but clear and pure. It is much more in pure deep raspberry and less wild on the nose than it can be. Such harmony on the palate, this is exquisite, a very noble Bonnes Mares with optimum purity and one of the most persistent finishes of the year. Brilliant! |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96-98 (IB) | HK$47,720.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (96-98)Rich purple, with energy on the nose, more black fruit, a little less easy to read than the flamboyant Ruchottes. Two thirds whole bunch just visible. Showing the duality of this vineyard. More black than red, nothing in any way cooked, deep long and sultry, some comparison with Bussière but a much greater depth of generous fruity and of course very long indeed. Going to be spectacular I think. A really classic structure with a brilliant aftertaste. Tasted: November 2021 |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97 (WA) | HK$10,270.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is impressively concentrated and multidimensional, unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of cherries, raspberries, Indian spices, coniferous forest floor, violets and orange zest. Full-bodied, layered and textural, with a layered core of fruit, fine but abundant tannins and a long, saturating finish, it transcends stereotypes of this challenging vintage. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 97 (WA) | HK$68,545.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (97)The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is impressively concentrated and multidimensional, unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of cherries, raspberries, Indian spices, coniferous forest floor, violets and orange zest. Full-bodied, layered and textural, with a layered core of fruit, fine but abundant tannins and a long, saturating finish, it transcends stereotypes of this challenging vintage. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97-99 (IB) | HK$10,245.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (97-99)(5-Star) An intense mid purple, the bouquet just made me burst into smiles at first sniff. This wine is always too multi-faceted to admit of simple fruit descriptors. There are quite a few berries in the bowl. Some fresh red fruit then much darer notes, I turn lightened up by the peppery notes to finish. This really kicks on magically behind! 75-80 whole bunch vinification. Drink from 2035. |
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