France
The vast and diverse wine regions of France, each with its own unique terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking techniques, are a treasure trove.
In Bordeaux, the birthplace of some of the world's most iconic wines, esteemed vineyards such as Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, and Château Haut-Brion produce exceptional red wines, showcasing the art of blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. The region is also renowned for its exquisite white wines, with vineyards like Château d'Yquem and Domaine de Chevalier producing legendary sweet wines.
Moving to Burgundy, the vineyards of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy, and Domaine Armand Rousseau capture the essence of the region's revered terroir, crafting exquisite red wines from the Pinot Noir grape. Meanwhile, Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Coche-Dury are celebrated for their world-class white wines, predominantly made from Chardonnay.
The Champagne region, known for its sparkling wines, boasts illustrious houses such as Krug, Dom Pérignon, and Moët & Chandon, as well as grower-producers like Pierre Péters and Jacques Selosse. These vineyards create exceptional sparkling wines using the traditional method, offering a symphony of delicate bubbles, elegant flavors, and vibrant acidity.
In the Rhône Valley, iconic vineyards like Chapoutier, E. Guigal, and Château de Beaucastel produce remarkable red wines in the northern appellations of Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, and Cornas, showcasing the elegance and power of Syrah. Further south, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is celebrated for its rich and full-bodied red blends, with Château Rayas and Clos des Papes leading the way.
In Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and omaine Trimbach craft exquisite white wines, including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, expressing the region's unique terroir and varietal character.
These are just a few highlights among the diverse array of wines that France offers. From the Loire Valley's crisp whites and elegant reds to the Languedoc-Roussillon's bold and robust wines, each region presents its own vinous treasures.
France
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Burgundy | 1 | 96 (BH) | HK$8,845.00 | |||||
Burghound (96)Once again there is just enough wood to mention on the green fruit, shellfish, quinine-suffused nose. The sleekly muscular, rich, powerful and serious larger-scaled flavors are unusually refined for Valmur before concluding in a driving, bone-dry and hugely long finale. This is a big but impeccably well-balanced effort that should easily repay 12 to 15 years of cellaring. In short, this is seriously good. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96 (WA) | HK$31,305.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96)The 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur is brilliant, mingling aromas of citrus oil, fresh mint and white flowers with notions of iodine and wet stones in a complex bouquet, followed by a full-bodied, deep and layered palate that's cool and racy, defying the vintage, and concluding with a long, saline finish. |
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Rhone | 7 | 91+ (VN) | HK$11,260.00 | |||||
Vinous (91+)Medium red-ruby. Smoky redcurrant nose, with hints of game, leather and pepper; surmuri notes of dried fruits. Fat but quite fine; less sweet and fruit-driven today than the Pignan but more complex, more serious. This has solid structure for aging. The Pignan always tastes better young than Rayas, Reynaud points out. |
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Rhone | 1 | 95.0 | HK$72,860.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 8 | 92.0 | HK$9,875.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 10 | 94 (VN) | HK$11,650.00 | |||||
Vinous (94)Medium red. Stunning floral and red berry aromas emphasize raspberry, strawberry and fresh lavender. Bright, focused and pure, with vibrant red fruit and mineral flavors given an exotic twist by a hint of dried apricot. The sweet finish leaves a strong floral pastille impression. The freshness and precision of this wine are really captivating. |
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Rhone | 2 | 98 (DC) | HK$9,495.00 | |||||
Decanter (98)A stunning, fresh perfume of orange rind, bright mint and strawberry jam. Plump, round and silky in the mouth, the rich alcohol and glycerol is matched by perfectly balanced acidity. Ethereal, bright, long and with so much personality; a beautiful, classic Rayas, which was opened 24 hours in advance of tasting. |
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Rhone | 1 | 94.0 | HK$76,910.00 | |||||
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Rhone | 1 | 98 (WA) | HK$13,475.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (98)The 2009 Rayas Chateauneuf du Pape is an awesome example of elegance combined with extraordinary power. The alcohol levels must be between 15.5% and 16%, but the elegance and sublime nature of this wine make it irresistible. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by an extraordinary bouquet of framboise, black cherry liqueur intermixed with blacker fruits, licorice and a hint of flowers. Pure with terrific layers of fruit concentration (although it's remarkably light on its feet), silky tannins, well-integrated acidity and a stunning personality, this monumental Rayas is breathtaking. This beauty will undoubtedly be drinkable early on (although Emmanuel Reynaud considers that to be infanticide), and it is capable of lasting 25-30 years. One of the world's most mysterious estates is Chateau Rayas. This small 30-acre estate is owned by the Reynaud family, which dates back to the late 19th century,. The estate has always had an image of secrecy and seclusion. Following the death of Jacques Reynaud in 1997, his nephew, Emmanuel took over, and he continues to produce wines that go from strength to strength. A cool climate property in a hot zone, Rayas is tucked away in a forest with its vineyards basically one parcel of sandy soil. Emmanuel Reynaud, who is also the proprietor of the outstanding Vacqueyras estate called Domaine des Tours, has the same eccentric idiosyncracies as his uncle. It is not as difficult to get an appointment to visit Rayas as many people think, and I highly recommend it as it is always a fascinating place to visit. After 25 years, I never cease to be amazed by what emerges from these decrepit, old, haphazard cellars that look like a biohazard room in a video game. They don't win the top prize for the dirtiest cellars in Chateauneuf du Pape (that goes to Henri Bonneau), but Rayas is a close second. Modern-day oenology graduates would be horrified by -working conditions,- but the magic elixirs to emerge from these ancient barrels, demi-muids and foudres are wondrous. On this trip, I tasted through the component parts of the 2010s, another top vintage for Rayas. Production was tiny, and the harvest was extremely late. In fact, Emmanuel Reynaud told me that 2011 would be at least ten days in advance of 2010. The 2009s, which have all been bottled, have turned out to be spectacular, and I tend to think the 2009 Rayas could turn out to be the greatest wine made by Emmanuel, even eclipsing the 2007. |
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Rhone | 1 | 98 (JD) | HK$13,760.00 | |||||
Jeb Dunnuck (98)Showing more finesse and elegance than the Pignan, yet still with plenty of density and concentration, the 2010 Châteauneuf Du Pape Reserve is a sensational effort from this estate that has a kaleidoscope-like array of framboise, darker cherries, sappy flowers, garrigue, and spice. Opening up beautifully with time in the glass as well, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, multi-dimensional texture, silky tannins, and a great finish. Reminding me slightly of the 1990, it is heavenly today and will be heavenly in another 15+ years as well. |
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Rhone | 2 | 18 (JR) | HK$9,415.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (18)Tasted from bottle at the domaine. Pale, sweet but very rich on the palate – almost heavy. It seems to have gained lots of weight since I last tasted it. Very rich and long. It will presumably be some time before this comes to market. UK importers OW Loeb expect to be able to offer the 2008 next year… |
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