France
The vast and diverse wine regions of France, each with its own unique terroirs, grape varieties, and winemaking techniques, are a treasure trove.
In Bordeaux, the birthplace of some of the world's most iconic wines, esteemed vineyards such as Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Margaux, Château Latour, and Château Haut-Brion produce exceptional red wines, showcasing the art of blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. The region is also renowned for its exquisite white wines, with vineyards like Château d'Yquem and Domaine de Chevalier producing legendary sweet wines.
Moving to Burgundy, the vineyards of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Domaine Leroy, and Domaine Armand Rousseau capture the essence of the region's revered terroir, crafting exquisite red wines from the Pinot Noir grape. Meanwhile, Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Coche-Dury are celebrated for their world-class white wines, predominantly made from Chardonnay.
The Champagne region, known for its sparkling wines, boasts illustrious houses such as Krug, Dom Pérignon, and Moët & Chandon, as well as grower-producers like Pierre Péters and Jacques Selosse. These vineyards create exceptional sparkling wines using the traditional method, offering a symphony of delicate bubbles, elegant flavors, and vibrant acidity.
In the Rhône Valley, iconic vineyards like Chapoutier, E. Guigal, and Château de Beaucastel produce remarkable red wines in the northern appellations of Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, and Cornas, showcasing the elegance and power of Syrah. Further south, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is celebrated for its rich and full-bodied red blends, with Château Rayas and Clos des Papes leading the way.
In Alsace, vineyards such as Domaine Zind-Humbrecht and omaine Trimbach craft exquisite white wines, including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Gris, expressing the region's unique terroir and varietal character.
These are just a few highlights among the diverse array of wines that France offers. From the Loire Valley's crisp whites and elegant reds to the Languedoc-Roussillon's bold and robust wines, each region presents its own vinous treasures.
France
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-92 (VN) | HK$840.00 | |||||
Vinous (90-92)The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Village contains 20% whole bunch and 30% new oak. It has a lovely, lilting brambly red berry nose infused with orange blossom and sous-bois aromas; very charming. The palate is silky-smooth on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, hints of dark chocolate infusing the red fruit and a persistent finish. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92 (VN) | HK$895.00 | |||||
Vinous (92)The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Village has the audacity to surpass the En Pallud this year. It has a potent nose that seems to jump out of the glass. Quite floral with hints of lavender intertwined with the vivacious red fruit. So much energy! That comes across on the palate too. Fine tannins, sapid and tensile, there is a brightness to this Village Cru that is quite thrilling. Superb. |
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Tawse Gevrey-Chambertin
(6x75cl)
2023
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Burgundy | - | 90-92 (IB) |
HK$2,615 - HK$3,195 |
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Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (90-92)A blend from across the appellation, six vineyards making 24 barrels from 1.2ha. Lovely ruby purple. 15% whole bunch. Once again it gives the extra lift in this case on a more full-bodied fruit on the palate, raspberry and strawberry, good acidity and fine length. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted Nov 2024. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 91-93 (VN) | HK$2,875.00 | |||||
Vinous (91-93)The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois is completely de-stemmed. It has a floral bouquet that bursts from the glass, revealing rose and iris petals and even a touch of lavender. The medium-bodied palate offers fleshy ripe tannins, fine acidity and a touch of allspice and clove toward the finish. There is still a touch of new oak to be subsumed, but this will be a very fine Aux Etelois. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 90-93 (IB) | HK$3,550.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (90-93)Domaine. 4 barrels, half new, 60% whole bunches, very healthy grapes here. Not too deep in colour, with a very stylish nose, albeit with the oak quite present in youth. A fair weight to this then a light sawdust note from the barrel. The intensity is more at the back of the palate and the length is impeccable. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (VN) | HK$10,950.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)(80% new oak; 60% vendange entier): Good dark red. Complex nose and palate meld cherry liqueur, animal fur, resiny spices and cedar, lifted by high notes of flowers and citrus peel. Very sweet, silky and ripe, with outstanding sappy verve giving this dense, tactile yet suave wine a noble quality. The very long, mounting finish shows superb fine-grained tannins and building sweetness. A real essence of this grand cru. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 96-98 (WA) | HK$2,505.00 | |||||
Wine Advocate (96-98)The 2015 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru, which includes 40% stems, has a gorgeous, engaging bouquet with a conspicuous oyster shell/marine influence running through the crystalline red berry fruit. There is outstanding aromatics, tension and energy here. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, harmonious and candied with finer tannin than the Mazoyères-Chambertin that one used to find with Bertrand Maume's wines, blessed with superb salinity and precision on the finish. This is a brilliant wine from Domaine Tawse, probably the best that has been made under the new ownership. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$2,335.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2016 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a complex and higher toned bouquet compared to the Mazis-Chambertin from Faiveley: compelling aromas of blackberry, raspberry preserve, briary, sea cave and light rose petal aromas. The oak just needs more time to assimilate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, and nicely pitched acidity. A tightly coiled finish feels abrupt for the moment. It just needs several years in bottle. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95 (VN) | HK$13,545.00 | |||||
Vinous (95)The 2016 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru has a complex and higher toned bouquet compared to the Mazis-Chambertin from Faiveley: compelling aromas of blackberry, raspberry preserve, briary, sea cave and light rose petal aromas. The oak just needs more time to assimilate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, and nicely pitched acidity. A tightly coiled finish feels abrupt for the moment. It just needs several years in bottle. Tasted blind at the 2016 Burgfest tasting. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 18 (JR) | HK$2,365.00 | |||||
Jancis Robinson (18)Lovely aromatic integration of clove, floral tones and red fruit, with a linear purity. Fine tannins and a long, perfumed finish show that this is the real deal. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95-97 (VN) | HK$8,375.00 | |||||
Vinous (95-97)he 2019 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru contains 20% whole bunch, since the single parcel of 80-year-old vines tends to produce tiny bunches. This has a complex bouquet of red plum, red currant, marmalade and light peppery notes that seems to expand with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Poised and harmonious, leading to a precise and very persistent, earthy finish. Superb. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95-98 (IB) | HK$21,500.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-98)5 star. Picked 2nd September at 13.5%. 80% new wood. 10% whole bunch. Lovely mid purple, not the deepest. More reserved than Mazoyères but clearly with an amazing depth. Crystalline purity, a whole bevy of fine red fruits underlined by a little torrefaction. It is really backward still but with extraordinary length. Very stylish. And actually then a huge weight of fruit returns even later. Tasted: November 2021 |
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Tawse Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
(3x75cl)
2023
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Burgundy | - | 93-95 (BH) |
HK$7,090 - HK$8,665 |
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Burghound (93-95)(Don't Miss) (from Mazis-Bas). An elegant, airy and beautifully layered nose is spicier still with plenty of floral influence suffusing the mix of red and dark currant, anise and forest floor. The super-sleek and equally, if markedly denser, medium-bodied flavors exhibit excellent power on the sappy, balanced and wonderfully persistent finale that is unmistakably built to repay extended keeping. One to strongly consider. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (BH) | HK$21,000.00 | |||||
Burghound (93-95)(Don't Miss) (from Mazis-Bas). An elegant, airy and beautifully layered nose is spicier still with plenty of floral influence suffusing the mix of red and dark currant, anise and forest floor. The super-sleek and equally, if markedly denser, medium-bodied flavors exhibit excellent power on the sappy, balanced and wonderfully persistent finale that is unmistakably built to repay extended keeping. One to strongly consider. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 93-95 (VN) | HK$2,075.00 | |||||
Vinous (93-95)The 2017 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru is de-stemmed and matured in 50% new oak (just two barrels produced). It has quite an intense bouquet of black and red fruit, plus hints of crushed violet petals and orange zest. The palate is very well balanced and quite voluminous in the mouth, with a fine bead of acidity. It displays more black than red fruit and touches of sage and black olive. The structured, masculine finish suggests it will need four or five years in bottle. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97-99 (VN) | HK$10,385.00 | |||||
Vinous (97-99)The 2020 Mazoyères Chambertin Grand Cru contains around 60% whole bunch, de-stemmed Leroy style with the central stem removed, matured in 100% new oak. It has a very pure bouquet, focused and intense with brambly red fruit, forest floor and touch of truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy texture but without detracting from the tension. Very cohesive, enormous weight with a poised, touch of mintiness towards the finish. Persistent. This could be one of the wines of the vintage. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 97-99 (VN) | HK$3,000.00 | |||||
Vinous (97-99)The 2020 Mazoyères Chambertin Grand Cru contains around 60% whole bunch, de-stemmed Leroy style with the central stem removed, matured in 100% new oak. It has a very pure bouquet, focused and intense with brambly red fruit, forest floor and touch of truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy texture but without detracting from the tension. Very cohesive, enormous weight with a poised, touch of mintiness towards the finish. Persistent. This could be one of the wines of the vintage. |
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Tawse Mazoyeres-Chambertin Grand Cru
(3x75cl)
2023
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Burgundy | - | 95-97 (IB) |
HK$6,545 - HK$8,000 |
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Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-97)45% whole bunch. Lifted ruby purple. A touch of coconut from the wood. This has much more finesse than the Charmes. Really graceful on the palate yet still with tensile strength. An excellent fruit acid balance too, altogether a classy Mazoyères. Very persistent. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2024. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 95-97 (IB) | HK$17,740.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (95-97)45% whole bunch. Lifted ruby purple. A touch of coconut from the wood. This has much more finesse than the Charmes. Really graceful on the palate yet still with tensile strength. An excellent fruit acid balance too, altogether a classy Mazoyères. Very persistent. Drink from 2030-2038. Tasted Nov 2024. |
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Burgundy | 1 | - | HK$42,670.00 | |||||
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The Tawse Musigny Grand Cru 2018 exemplifies the pinnacle of Burgundian elegance. Sourced from the esteemed Musigny vineyard in the Côte de Nuits, this Pinot Noir is meticulously cultivated by the renowned Tawse estate, celebrated for its dedication to sustainable viticulture and traditional winemaking techniques. Hand-harvested grapes undergo a precise vinification process, including cold maceration and fermentation in French oak barrels, enhancing complexity and structure. The 2018 vintage unveils a deep ruby hue, accompanied by aromatic notes of red berries, delicate floral nuances, and subtle hints of earth and spice. On the palate, it delivers a harmonious balance of silky tannins, vibrant acidity, and a lingering, refined finish. Tawse Musigny Grand Cru 2018 is a testament to the producer's unwavering commitment to quality and terroir expression, making it a distinguished choice for connoisseurs seeking the quintessential Burgundy Grand Cru experience. |
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Burgundy | 1 | 92-94 (VN) | HK$6,450.00 | |||||
Vinous (92-94)The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain 1er Cru has the best aromatics of Tawse’s white with delineated, mineral-driven citrus fruit that blossoms in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation, citrus fresh with touches of orange zest and nectarine towards the finish that has plenty of energy. Excellent. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 91-94 (IB) | HK$9,030.00 | |||||
Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy (91-94)A domaine wine, badly hit by the frost. Clear bright colour, a light barrel toast but clearly with interesting fruit beneath. There is quite some concentration on the palate especially at the back, with yellow plum and pear fruit, a good thread of acidity and persistence. |
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Burgundy | 2 | 88-90 (VN) | HK$2,065.00 | |||||
Vinous (88-90)The 2017 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières 1er Cru includes around 35% whole clusters, raised in 20% new oak (this cuvée was racked just before my visit). The nose shows just a slight reduction, but underneath there is pretty brambly black fruit mixed with black olive tapenade. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit, quite fine tannin, touches of black currant pastilles and a dash of spice toward the pert finish. Pretty, though I would drink this over the next 10 years. |
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